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Hi again, I decided to go for this option. I have fitted a pull-cord switch close to the fan and wired an extra live from the L terminal in the new switch to the fan's T terminal. The trouble is, although the fan runs when I pull the cord, it goes off immediately when I pull it again, instead of...

Yes it's in a bathroom. I know the ceiling lamp would be ideal. Trouble is, I installed a new light fitting there a while back and it was a nightmare to fit all thecables and wires in and I don't want to medle with it now...

Thanks. It's a 70s bungalow. I want to use this old heater cable and switch because otherwise that switch will be redundant. Ideally though, I would like to use the timer feature somehow, preferable with the light switch but your solution sounds like a reasonable option...

It's on the wall outside the bathroom at head height. Re linking the terminals: I don't think there's enough room in the tiny terminals for another wire due to the cable being 1.5mm. Is there any other way I could do this?

Hello all, I have installed a new Expelair fan with timer, taking its power from a cable with fused switch that was previously used to power a bathroom wall-mounted heater that I have removed (I've changed the fuse from 13 amp to 3 amp). I decided to try to use it without using the timer...

Hi all, Recently moved into a 70s bungalow with no extractor in bathroom. There is an electric fan heater on the bathroom wall with a pull cord and fused switch outside the bathroom door at head height. I don't need this heater so I am considering using the wiring for my future fan, but with a...

Hi SP, DS, et al, here's an update: After a busy week at work, I just tried wiring another new light switch to the remaining pull cord cable as a test. The two-way switching works perfectly, so it seems the problem was a fault with the old pull switch or some kind of incompatibility between it...

Thx Sp, That's right, there's a big old-fashioned square junction box with a maze of cables connected, including the two to the switches concerned. I will try reconnecting the old switch.

Yep, good advice, no doubt. Thx all

Thx DS, I have done that and remade them and they are fine as far as I can tell!

Thanks for the advice SP, I will try to get my hands on a multimeter... My next door neighbour is a sparks, but the last time I asked him to look at something for me (and said I would pay), I waited the whole winter before finding one through the yellow pages! He might lend me an mm though! Re...

Hi, I just tried that configuration to see if the 2-way would operate but it is still only possible to control one of the switches: if one is in a certain position, the other can be used to operate the light and vice versa....

Sorry, here

Here's a photo of the disconnected pull switch

Hello, that's the way I've got the switch wired at the moment. The only terminal marked on the old switch is 'common two way', which was where the white was connected.

Just to clarify, I meant blue to black!

Yes indeed: white to grey, red to brown, blue to blue

See my reply below There's no "common" marked on the switch, just L at one end (to which I've connected the white), then L1 (brown connected) and L2 (blue connected) together at the other end.

Dunno where the poly came from... but what's up with the coving, my pride and joy, that is ;-)

Btw, on closer inspection, I see that the terminal on the removed pull cord that the dirty white wire was connected to is marked "common, 2 way". The other 2 terminals are not marked. Dunno if that helps!