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lol i avoided it in the end as half the chipppies i've spoken to with vans have had them cleaned out/robbed so opted to manage with a car/large boot. I'm not running my own business so don't really need to move sheet materials around anyway.

Even if i dont use them here those zip fixings look great. I'll see if i can find a stud somewhere near then a ply pad the same shape and size as the wall side mount.. a few screws in that and plenty of gripfill should do it.

I havent really explored the area yet but its a small footprint obviously for the bracket and here's not much play with the placement so no chance of getting a stud with both sides anyway. Would rather not slap a bit of ply or baton first so was thinking of alternate fixings...

Toggles? If so which.. i'm wanting to mount a wall bracket for a midsize lcd screen. It's a hollow partition with lathe/plaster walls..

Right, that'll be handy when i've got something like a loose string but the uper flight on this was of a piece so once it was up.. it was up lol

Thanks i'll bear all that in mind. I did have bbq skewers which i sometimes use in the same way but they were a long way from where we were working couldnt be arsed.

No i meant not getting into the wall. We predrilled all the holes and added a washer.

Thanks, will try that in the future although i'm done with them for now as the price was crap.

Thats it.. we used tile batten. I tried 7, 6 and 5.5 bits. 7 and 6 would get into the wall but not grip enough then at 5.5 you can't get the plug in. I asked if they had any rawlbolts. They should have fixings that work for this.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/c4ZCxV7QjBCaw4qk9

I should have added it's a double flight with winders on the turn. The wall gaps are 25mm and we packed with 2x1, Material for string is 25mm and we were given 100mmx5 screws. Walls are breeze and we couldn't get a proper fixing with any combination of bits/plug. Gave us some frame fixings but i...

I've seen some recommended details for fixing wall strings with gaps of under or over 40mm (600/300mm centres with 50mm min penetration) but is it not actually given in regs specifically? An issue since i've had to install them on site and couldn't get any decent fix with what was supplied...

Recently picked up the dmr109 and find the aux input is orders of magnitude quiter than the radio which is problem as you need to max the volume to get anything out of whatever you plug into the aux (phone audio) which is then liable to blow the speakers/eadrums swithing back to radio. Do these...

The thing is.. you want it sharp, but the finer the edge, the quicker it's gone right? so a fine stone finish would be more than a fair tradeoff off in time/usefulness i think..

Cheers again. I'll be back in tomorrow and can see what setup the others are using too. I think all the locks/plates are the same on this job which means from 5 to 10 of the same plate rebate for nearly all except bathrooms so i think i might just make a jig for those and use my cordless on...

I've got both the jigs but not too sure which way to go routerwise. I've already got a trimmer and 1/4" trand that would do the hinges and faceplates but as you need 1/2" for mortising i'll have to pick one up. If i want to use the same one for faceplate and mortising couldn't i just drill a...

Good to know.. those are so much cheaper than the DMT ones..

Thanks for the steer (har har) :)

Are any of these a good guide as to how much you can fit in the back? Essentially i just need to fit 8x4 sheet materials in so which wheel base would manage that or does it entirely depend on the particular vehicle?

Thanks... i'll have a look at those too. Had a bad experience with a cheap one first time round so bit more careful now.