I've seen some recommended details for fixing wall strings with gaps of under or over 40mm (600/300mm centres with 50mm min penetration) but is it not actually given in regs specifically? An issue since i've had to install them on site and couldn't get any decent fix with what was supplied. Foreman then decided the fixing was entirely optional...
Regs for fixing of stair strings to wall
- Thread starter kaseryn
- Start date
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I should have added it's a double flight with winders on the turn. The wall gaps are 25mm and we packed with 2x1, Material for string is 25mm and we were given 100mmx5 screws. Walls are breeze and we couldn't get a proper fixing with any combination of bits/plug. Gave us some frame fixings but i didn't trust them and they are at the edge of their tolerance with only 50mm of screw depth. As a last resurt and showing how much we can reply on him for guidance foreman gave us some 100mm tek screws.
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yes 2x1[21x44mm]is exactly what i would suggest both at the string top and at screw line [or 2x1 tile baton actual 25x50mm]
somtimes brown plugs a small undersized 5mm hole will give a good grip but would need fixing directly in the wall as any push through option is going to struggle for grip
that would be your 100mm screws 38+25+38mm [1.5"]in the brown plug
somtimes brown plugs a small undersized 5mm hole will give a good grip but would need fixing directly in the wall as any push through option is going to struggle for grip
that would be your 100mm screws 38+25+38mm [1.5"]in the brown plug
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Thats it.. we used tile batten. I tried 7, 6 and 5.5 bits. 7 and 6 would get into the wall but not grip enough then at 5.5 you can't get the plug in. I asked if they had any rawlbolts. They should have fixings that work for this.
if you plug wont grip cut a brown plug into half and quarters length ways and pad the hole out first with a quarter then iff needed a half
also red plugs in halfs or quarters used in the centre before screw to tighten even more
also red plugs in halfs or quarters used in the centre before screw to tighten even more
if you mean not knock through the timber with a screw it wont but what you can drill a 5mm into the wall then 7mm hole through the timber and 2mm extra to make sure you not knocking splinter out the back to get in the way
ok the main saver is the part[red ] plugs especially when you have a brown plug now in a wall behind a secured timber that just spins a quarter plug at a time pushed in the hole remember often your into the plug about 6mm before the plug will expand so if no grip will just spin so a bit off red plug knocked into the centre can expand enough to grip and you can keep going adding further quarters as anything in front off the screw may fold and bend as you hammer it in but will eventually end up in the plug
this is another reason to keep you hole no more than 3-5mm deeper than required
to stop knocking the plug to the back off an overly deep hole and loosing say 10-15 mm off grip when its difficult enough
a part solution would be a longer screw but no more than a few mill deeper than the hole to give max grip
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another good tip is 4" wire nails now you can use say 2" ovals but they tend to fall out
any way drill all the holes needed in a baton insert nail in each hole
go to a nail near the centre two or three taps if it takes the weight go to a nearby hole same again
9 times out off ten in all but hard bricks it will hold allowing you to easilly mark all the holes
and because in brick it will tend to chip out the surface its easy to see the mark to drill
any way drill all the holes needed in a baton insert nail in each hole
go to a nail near the centre two or three taps if it takes the weight go to a nearby hole same again
9 times out off ten in all but hard bricks it will hold allowing you to easilly mark all the holes
and because in brick it will tend to chip out the surface its easy to see the mark to drill
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