Getting the garage conversion underway at last. Seen the building Regs inspector and he has specified 50mm insulation on the wall that meets my neighbour's garage wall, with 50mm Kingspan/Celotex between studwork.
Same on wall that meets the kitchen (on the other side), buut only 25mm thickness required.
Would you do attach the studs with hammer fixings through the stud and wall, or would a high quality brown rawlplug do it e.g 35mm long, drilled and pressed flush into the blockwork and then the studwork is screwed through the wood and into the rawlplug (say using an 85mm screw so that it penetrates to the end of the rawlplug in the wall from the front face of the studding. Will this be secure enough to secure 50mm studding and plasterboard (then a thin skim of plaster) on top, with a rawl plug at every 600mm on height for every 450mm centre stud stud? Celotex boards cut at 1200 x 400 inserted in the stud gaps.
Would you insist on PAR for the studding or is that a waste over using sawn if the sawn wood is straight? I can't see sawn being so rough on the surface for a plasterboard not to screw squarely too it, although you'll probably get more banana shaped lengths with sawn than PAR I would imagine.
Just wanting to ensure i'm not massively over engineering if I don't need to incur the extra cost.
Thanks in advance for your time in replying.
Same on wall that meets the kitchen (on the other side), buut only 25mm thickness required.
Would you do attach the studs with hammer fixings through the stud and wall, or would a high quality brown rawlplug do it e.g 35mm long, drilled and pressed flush into the blockwork and then the studwork is screwed through the wood and into the rawlplug (say using an 85mm screw so that it penetrates to the end of the rawlplug in the wall from the front face of the studding. Will this be secure enough to secure 50mm studding and plasterboard (then a thin skim of plaster) on top, with a rawl plug at every 600mm on height for every 450mm centre stud stud? Celotex boards cut at 1200 x 400 inserted in the stud gaps.
Would you insist on PAR for the studding or is that a waste over using sawn if the sawn wood is straight? I can't see sawn being so rough on the surface for a plasterboard not to screw squarely too it, although you'll probably get more banana shaped lengths with sawn than PAR I would imagine.
Just wanting to ensure i'm not massively over engineering if I don't need to incur the extra cost.
Thanks in advance for your time in replying.
