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You don't think at 30mm steel post is stronger than a tree?

I'm not sure that the above idea would be strong enough, it would concentrate all the forces to the top of the pole and create a weak point so I've changed my mind Thinking outside the box I've decided that because the post is hollow my best option is to cut it off and concrete a narrower post...

Thanks for all the sugestions! My current plan is to cut a 'collet' shap into the bottom, i.e. 1" slots in a cross shape. I can then remove the inner rings with a chisel/knife and hopefully clamp the whole thing to the post with jubilee clips. Not the best method and a bit ugly but so far the...

That's my problem, trying to find one avout the right size in the uk.

Yeah thought about that but not sure it will be possible after a few inches deep. It does seem like the best option so far as the centre bit should follow a whole and keep it straight.

A bi-metal hole saw can't cut deep enough.

I have a post in the garden, 500mm high and 60mm diameter. I'd like to drill a matching hole in the bottom of a christmas tree so I can put it on the post. What is the best way to drill the hole? I figured a centre hole that a larger bit could follow would be best but there is little choice...

Is there such a thing that you can clip on a hard to reach joint, then heat it and the heat will conduct into to the joint for soldering (or removal) ? I want to unsolder the elbows of these two pipes. The pipes come from the wall cavity about 1" away which has insulation from the 1980s in it...

Good advice, thanks! It's only a temporary measure until I have more time and money to do a proper job and replace it but that'll probably be nearer Christmas. We do have another shower so I could just leave it but this is my favourite!

Thank John, that is pretty much what I thought.

My 3 bar water tank is upstairs and my shower and tap are about 20 metres of 15mm copper pipe away from it. The shower seals were made for 1 bar maximum but they seem to cope fine with 3 bar but just can't manage the water hammer effect from the sink tap turning off quickly. Rather than...

Grrr, darn thing! I've attached a temperature probe to the boiler return feed and adjusted the system to a 65'C return. After about 5 minutes the boiler shuts off. I suspect this means the pump is too small (grundfos 15/50). Looking at the chart, a head of about 3.5m would cause flow rates...

22mm is through the heat exhanger - low flow rate in parallel with 28mm. I still have recieved my accurate thermometer yet but I think there is an alternative solution as the boiler circulation loop is much more tunable. I'll set the heat exchanger to take enough heat out and then fine tune...

The cheapest bowman I could find new was about the £300 and non were available on ebay at the time. I initially used a 135,000BTU Certikin heat exchanger but could only get 60% the flow through it that it required to perform to rated spec. I want to run at 50Kw or 175,000BTU and to achieve...

I put copper in the pool to prevent algae anyway. Copper fittings were used up until the 70's and last many decades. Head loss shouldn't be too bad through a small portion of 28mm (26.3mm internal) copper, it isn't massively lower than 32mm (1.25") that the pump is supplied with. I agree it...

Oops, per minute! :) The heat exchanger is downstream of the filter. Pool->pump->filter (3 port valve)->A in diagram ->E in diagram -> pool

That sounds about right, I think it was about 7.4 ish degrees but with errors in flow rate and temperature readings. Primary Side? The flow through the whole system in 80L/s, the flow through the heat exchanger is unknown.

The blend is to keep the pressure down and the flow rate up. The heat exhanger has a lot of resistance and if all the water goes through it the flow rate drops to about 50L/m and the pressure puts too much strain on the pool plumbing. Also, the boiler return temperature drops to about 30'C and...

I installed a heat exchanger for my small swimming pool, however I have to balancing incorrect. Whilst it does work it is very sensitive. A - 1.5" input from 400W pool pump through normal central heating pump valve, restricted flow into 28mm copper (couldn't get full bore from screwfix). B -...

I've done a lot of research and I think the problem is flow rates, perhaps because the heat exchanger wants to be low resistance as part of a larger plumbing circuit. I think there is a lot of laminar flow within the heat exchanger and this gives a lot of heat to a small volume of water in...