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I'd use a coloured oil rather than dye, dye can end up looking patchy as it will be absorbed more and less in areas depending on the finish of the wood.

Could you cross batten the area with 2x4 then board? Would give you extra piece of mind and strengthen the existing joists, wouldn't be to much extra time or cost involved in doing this.

I'd use oil, a lot easier to re apply when the door has weathered abit. Varnish is good but in the long run oil enhance the door and protect it the best.

Is the architrave painted? If it is get some of the same type, and cut slithers of it to fit then touch up the paint over it. If it isn't painted you could cut off the bottoms of the architrave on either side to the same height eg 5cm then fit a block piece at the base a bit like this...

The tiles would be best adhered to the concrete, if there are loose vinyl tiles or places where it's easy to get them up its a good indication that more may become loose and it's not a good base to be tiling onto. Everyone has there own opinions, but for the sake of a few hours removing the...

If you insulate, raise batten and board it out any leaks etc will quickly be found as you'd see drips on the loft board, once located you could do some quick fixes for the time being. Ensure you keep some air flow into the loft when you insulate it, if there's dampness in there now you might...

Same thing would happen to grout, just possible quicker. Being that windows are open and closed (causing vibration etc) and subjected to lots of different temperatures silicone would always be better than grout.

Unless your current worktop has the depth for the fridge to be recessed back and a door put on front, hinged separately your out of luck. A standard worktop is generally around 600mm deep you would need preferable around 700mm of depth to recess a standard fridge far enough back to fit a...

Err Ive used pva mix plenty of times to seal plaster with no problems, In fact I've just plastered a 6m x 3m room done this and decorated and guess what, a month later no problems. Perhaps your mixing the pva a little thick, its no different to watered down emulsion. Also in this case if...

Would guess there's a path or driveway to the house as they cant be opening straight out on to the public footpath.

You don't need to change the overflow outlet, just adjust the level it fills to by adjusting the ball cock a little. If it fills to a reasonable level (i.e 3/4 full) since you adjusted it it will probably fine as it is. Gobz

Personally that door is a very nice feature, If it were me I'd put a upvc door in the outer archway and leave the current door to make a little porchway to leave shoe/boots etc inside but out of sight. That's if there's space for a door to open inwards from the arch. Don't think you'd have...

It looks a little like the old plaster wasn't sealed very well round the edges before it was painted. I'd scrap and sand off any loose old paint then seal with a pva/water mix, and then repaint. Gobz

The level of the water just needs to fall below the over flow pipe, if its coming into the tank then has an elbow dropping it down a few inches use the end of this as a guide and set it to fill till it just covers the end of the overflow pipe. It doesn't need to be under water, you just want as...

Where the mitres are cut for corners can I also use caulk to fill these gaps and sponge in the same way? Yep. Also when I put the last coat of paint on the skirting whilst its on the wall do I also paint the caulk? I would, can tend to get grubby after a while. Gobz :)

I'd personally knot treat it then undercoat once then overcoat twice like you said you did before. If you were using a one coat paint, two undercoats would give a better base for the one coat to work. Gobz.

Do you think I could get away with calling out the RAC to have a look? It does affect the use off it when the weather is bad, and I do have full cover.

There are quite a few products like this about that should do the job. http://www.colorfastind.com/products/groutcolorant.htm Gobz

He does understand what you mean, he was just answering your question regarding the netting. You use it to hold the insulation up between the rafters, which is being used more often now as an extra layer of insulation which doesn't reduce the storage space as much as doubling up the layers...

Pour the warm water over first, then open it a little to see if there's any flow then close and repeat until it begins running again. I'd also consider covering it with some insulation to try and keep the cold off it as it will occur again unless you can shut it off inside and drain it.