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ok great many thanks for the reply. wen't through where i want pirs etc today and have come up with the shopping list below 1 x - Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel Poly 2 x - Texecom Premier Elite FMK Diamond White 2 x - Texecom Ricochet Premier Smart Keyfob 8 x - Texecom Prestige Pet...

hi:) going to be installing a wired texecom system myself with any necessary support form a work colleague (who is a qualified spark and ex alarm installer). he hasn't installed alarms for a few years so isn't up to speed current systems etc. I want to do as much as i can without bothering him...

thanks for the replies. it is 18mm ply with noggins roughly every 400mm (depending on wiring). when you say cement mix, would a premoxed mortar mix be suitable? the top bathroom is in a rear dormer so the pir is going in the celing and exterior walls.

hi:) can i install a stone resin tray directly onto a plywood floor in a 1st floor bathroom? the whole floor has been renewed and strengthened with noggins. i have plenty of space below to sink the low profile waste etc and a favourable route to the soil pipe. as i'm also installing pir...

Brilliant, looks straight forward Thanks mate:)

Yes I understand, I'll have a read up on slip sockets. Thanks again:)

Great many thanks for all the replies. I'll replace the tee then, and if im doing that I might as well replace the piece running to the toilet with one new piece. The pipe exits a flat roof above which I've just had renewed with epdm, i really dont want to compromise the seal on that.I take it...

trust me we wont be moving again. so the only way to sort it is to replace that tee completely? what is the problem with the design? also why do i need a plumber in to do it? many thanks

Hi:) continuing with my 80's dormer renovations i'm now doing the upstairs bathroom. the soil pipe is internal to the house that exits out of the roof, i now want to move the toliet location over by approx 600mm then frame out from the block wall, the plan is then to erect a stud wall outwards...

brilliant, thats just saved me a load of work i thought i needed to do then! i'll just stick them on then, would you recommend a specific type/size e.g. the plastic ones in that area? or will the normal galvanised ones do the job? plan is to do the room in the tapered edge pb and do all the...

plan was to overboard with the insulation attaching with enough long screws and metal discs to be solid, then attach the plasterboard with more screws through the pb and insulation into the timbers. is that a bad idea? should i be using the adhesive foam only? or could i use both for extra...

ok not sure what you are explaining if im honest :D, but i'm glad there is a method! so just to confirm this is on separate insulation and plasterboard, not the insulated backed plasterboard right? how is the bead fixed in place with nothing behind?

hi:) rennovating my 80's house and am retrofitting PIR insulation into the top floor dormers. i have 50 mm between the timbers and am overboarding with 100mm then plasterboard on top. where the internal vertical side of the dormer cheek and the internal sloped surface of the roof meet, i will...

if i'm asking a stupid question please tell me, i have searched the forum and cannot find another case similar to mine. or is it a case of no house is the same so it is impossible to forecast what is best etc?? i'm keen to progress and at the moment am leaning towards installing soffit vents...

Ah thinking about it there is a concrete duct which I assume runs within the wall. one end was connected to a vent on the roof ridge line above that wall. The other is 3 floors below in a cellar room. I'm assuming at some point they had an old boiler or something down there. Precious...

Hi:) me again sorry! whilst renovating our dormer bedrooms i've found this previous wire mesh in the wall, which i'm assuming is some kind of repair? when we moved in there was a piece of plasterboard stuck to the wall where the old sealant is. i pulled the board off and noticed that when...

hi:) i'm retrofitting 150mm of rigid foil backed recticel insulation into the ceiling, sloped roof and dormer timber frames. i'm installing 50/100mm between timbers depending on where i can still achieve the 50mm air gap, and then overboard with 50/100 depending on what is installed...

hi:) i'm completely retrofitting new flooring and rigid insulation to the upstairs dormers in our recently purchased 80's house. bit of info about the pic, it shows 50mm of rigid between the timbers at the min, and i will be overboarding with 100mm then plasterboard over the top. in the timber...

Yes all will be covered, Sorry to sound thick, but are we talking screwing at angles in, or some 100mm plus screws (I have some 150mm for the insulation +pb) directly through? Thanks again

many thanks foxhole, i'll get on to my local timber yard i have a couple of kreg pocket hole jigs, so i'm planning on using pocket screws to attach them to the original timber. Do you think these would be ok? or is there another method you would use? edit, would you use treated or sawn kiln dried?