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Good advice. However I think as standard now, every solicitors questionnaire that goes to a seller will ask about boiler, electrics and windows.

Granted it's an old thread, but the info is still just as valid/useful.

Can't you just deny fitting any new windows since 2002?

Yes, I'm turning toilet through 90 deg and using a flexible pan connector to route it to the toilet waste. I also plan to use a pan connector with a 40/32mm boss for the basin waste.

True, or dig out enough to fit one of these:

Only because with the floor being concrete, and the drain in the floor it seemed to lend itself well to a wet room. With a compact cloakroom basin and short projection toilet, the shower would still have it's own 800x700 floor space.

Oh I see. Yes I suspected this went directly to the drain, but hadn't thought of the 40mm waste. To be honest, this shower would probably rarely get used; I could always stick a drain plug down it when when not in use. I'd rather do that than have to fit a raised shower tray.

I've bought a house with a sort of annex ground floor toilet/cloakroom. My plan is to turn this into a wet room. Some pics: Now the back of the basin is accessed from this outside door. You can see the sink drains to the waste pipe in the floor: This rear access make it...

Great, thanks. Would the uprights of the frame be offering structural support?

Hi all, The first picture shows my current work in progress house. The plan is to replace the back door by extending the window, as per the second pic of a neighbour's house. [/URL] Does anyone have any knowledge on the construction of these 1970s houses? Would I need to brick up the...

Those documents are perfect, I'll send them to the tenants to reinforce the point. Before I jump in drilling 5" holes into the walls, I might have a meeting with them and get them to change their habits.

Well to put you in the picture, this is a flat I rent out. It's a 1960s 2 bed ground floor flat with double glazing and GCH. I used to live there myself and often had the windows ajar and rarely used the heating (cheapskate), and never had a problem with condensation. Now I've got tenants in...

Ah, ok, well I'll go with the ducting then, thanks. Glad I asked now.

Great, thanks for the explanation and confirmation Ian. You mention knocking out the brickwork after drilling; am I being paranoid, but is it not detrimental to the structure of the walls to be knocking out potentially 6" x 9" hole?

I want to rid a flat of condensation by fitting vents to the walls. My first preference would be one of these but then I'd need a 127mm core drill which is gonna cost me £50 (unless I hire one). So I'm also considering a these . They are the cheaper option and I wouldn't need a core...

So by checking, am I looking for something "lintel like" that spans more than the width of the whole window/door slap?

I see. So am I ok to remove the current door frame, or is it providing support for what's above it?

Well it will be the same height as the existing window, but extend to the end of the door way. I think I'll go with one big opening window in UPVC. I'm not gonna come to sell and find some surveyor spotting the window has been replaced and ask for a FENSA certificate am I?

Yeah that's a good idea. I'm right in thinking the current door frame wouldn't be offering any structural support to what's above it? As for fitting the new window, can I do it myself, or have I got to line the pocket of someone "FENSA certified"? :roll:

Oh that's good then. Regarding lintel, I'll be keeping whatever lintel is currently above the door and window anyway won't I? And when fitting the new window, is there some legislation beuracracy about me doing it myself? Do I need to get a FENSA certified person to do it? :roll: