Search results

  1. R

    Drayton two port 22mm valve body to replace Smartfit units?

    Excellent advice guys, many thanks. Will go ahead and see if its like for like, otherwise the blow torch comes out to play ...
  2. R

    Drayton two port 22mm valve body to replace Smartfit units?

    What are the measuring points? The end of the 22mm pipe, the theads, nut, olive?
  3. R

    Drayton two port 22mm valve body to replace Smartfit units?

    I’m replacing my Honeywell Smartfit system with a Drayton twin zone 2-channel heating pack. Does anyone know if the Drayton two port 22mm valves will go in the same pipe spacing as the Honeywell units? I’ve tried in vain to get the physical dimension of the Drayton vales without success unless...
  4. R

    Gap at lower part of UPVC door

    Door is straight, as is the frame. I noticed that when closing, the bottom right goes slightly out of shape. I've adjusted the deadlatch to no avail. So as a last resort I moved the part the cam locks into (pic 3) further towards the outside by around 2mm. Shuts fine now :) The irony is these...
  5. R

    Gap at lower part of UPVC door

    The bottom right of my front door (circled red in the attached photo) has a gap larger than a Credit card. In the winter, you can feel the cold blowing through. I have tried the following: Replaced both the seals on the door and frame. Adjusted the Cam on the door edge. The butt hinges don’t...
  6. R

    Worktop bolts. How tight should they be?

    Excellent, thank you :)
  7. R

    Worktop bolts. How tight should they be?

    Been searching high and low for this info ! When joining 22mm laminate worktops with unika (or similar) bolts, how tight should they be? What are the signs over tightening? Cheers
  8. R

    Internal block walls in relation to ceiling plasterboard.

    Took a look, and the block work finishes about 15mm below the plasterboard with a bed of mortar filling the gap. More interesting for me, is a 'square web of string' between the wall and plaster over the mortar bed. I don't have a clue about building, but it looks very neat lol
  9. R

    Internal block walls in relation to ceiling plasterboard.

    Thank you for that info, really interesting. Will see what else I can reveal when I chase the walls out up to the ceiling !
  10. R

    Internal block walls in relation to ceiling plasterboard.

    Appears to be. So would that indicate none are supporting walls, although they could be buttress (dont have any knowledge of either). Is it usual to build the outer four walls of a bungalow, then plasterboard all the ceilings before building the block internal walls?
  11. R

    Internal block walls in relation to ceiling plasterboard.

    Just out of curiosity When pulling a new cable through in the loft, I noticed there is plasterboard on top of all the internal block walls. Really interested in the construction method if anyone would care to explain :)
  12. R

    Gap between wall & floor behind kitchen units

    Hi guys Gap between wall & floor behind kitchen units where no skirting has been fitted: Leave Plaster or take pictures to show friends after the kitchen has been fitted :)
  13. R

    Moving cooker switch

    I didn't explain it to well really. I have a reel of 1.5mm so to save further expense will make use of that. The LED lighting is a tad oddball compared to an average install, thus difficult to explain without diagrams ect
  14. R

    Moving cooker switch

    I was intending to use 1.5mm as its for LED lighting in the ceiling, under the kitchen cabs, and under the plinths. I figure it will be easier to work with in the tight spaces one out of the chase. Total wattage will be around 40watts
  15. R

    Moving cooker switch

    It's a bungalow, so the CU is around 150mm bellow the ceiling on the opposite wall to the cooker, in total around 3.5 metres of T&E that is nice and loose inside the chase. I already have some 10mm and have to go inside the loft above the kitchen to run some new lighting circuits. As I'm...
  16. R

    Moving cooker switch

    Technically, 6mm 32amp will do; however, its a 5 ring induction + two ovens + a grill. The hob is 12.7kw on its own, plus the ovens. The spec calls for 6mm @ 40amp, but as I may have to chase the wall up to the ceiling and the CU is on the opposite wall 2 metres away, it might be best to replace...
  17. R

    Moving cooker switch

    I've just realised there wont be any wall cabinets above the Range and 100mm either side. However, it does provide the opportunity to remove the 6mm and replace with 10mm T&E and uprate the breaker.
  18. R

    Moving cooker switch

    Excellent suggestion, many thanks !
  19. R

    Moving cooker switch

    I have a standard 60cm built in electric oven and hob with the cooker isolating switch sited just outside the hot zone. I’m replacing it with a 90cm range cooker which means I have to move the cooker isolating switch around 40cm to the left. If I cut a new channel horizontal to the existing...
Back
Top