Moving cooker switch

[Rapidonset]

I have a standard 60cm built in electric oven and hob with the cooker isolating switch sited just outside the hot zone. I’m replacing it with a 90cm range cooker which means I have to move the cooker isolating switch around 40cm to the left.

If I cut a new channel horizontal to the existing cooker switch, I’m left with two issues. Is it prohibited to have cables buried in the wall around 20 cm above the induction hob (16mm chase with conduit on top), and can I join to the existing cable at the site of the original cooker switch with Wago, Solder, or other allowed means and bury the joined cable in plaster?

I hope the attached diagram helps my poor description.

 

[SUNRAY]

While you're altering the wall cupboards, why not do the join at ceiling level with a back box and blanking plate, then run horizontally to the left and then down to the new position?

 

[Rapidonset]

Excellent suggestion, many thanks !

 

[SUNRAY]

Excellent suggestion, many thanks !

I forgot to say; excellent first post. Good description of works and a drawing to back it up.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

Or as you dont need a switch by law you could remove it completely

 

[Rapidonset]

I've just realised there wont be any wall cabinets above the Range and 100mm either side. However, it does provide the opportunity to remove the 6mm and replace with 10mm T&E and uprate the breaker.

 

[SUNRAY]

I've just realised there wont be any wall cabinets above the Range and 100mm either side. However, it does provide the opportunity to remove the 6mm and replace with 10mm T&E and uprate the breaker.

Do you need to uprate?

 

[Rapidonset]

Do you need to uprate?

Technically, 6mm 32amp will do; however, its a 5 ring induction + two ovens + a grill. The hob is 12.7kw on its own, plus the ovens. The spec calls for 6mm @ 40amp, but as I may have to chase the wall up to the ceiling and the CU is on the opposite wall 2 metres away, it might be best to replace the cable to avoid a join and change it out to 10mm at the same time.

 

[SUNRAY]

A lot depends on the difficulty of the cable run and length, it certainly doesn't shout at me to change.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Technically, 6mm 32amp will do;

Technically 4mm² (method C) will do with 32A.

 

[Rapidonset]

It's a bungalow, so the CU is around 150mm bellow the ceiling on the opposite wall to the cooker, in total around 3.5 metres of T&E that is nice and loose inside the chase. I already have some 10mm and have to go inside the loft above the kitchen to run some new lighting circuits. As I'm paying a tradesman to come in to test, check and hopefully sign off, it makes sense to do the lot in one go.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Are you also using the 10mm² for the lighting circuits?

A lot of people have 10mm² for the whole supply to the premises.

 

[Rapidonset]

I was intending to use 1.5mm as its for LED lighting in the ceiling, under the kitchen cabs, and under the plinths. I figure it will be easier to work with in the tight spaces one out of the chase. Total wattage will be around 40watts

 

[SUNRAY]

A lot depends on the difficulty of the cable run and length, it certainly doesn't shout at me to change.

4 m, assuming it's not covered with insulation I wouldn't bother - just uprate the MCB to 40A if you feel you need to.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I was intending to use 1.5mm as its for LED lighting in the ceiling, under the kitchen cabs,and under the plinths.

That doesn't really make sense. The two things are unrelated.

I figure it will be easier to work with in the tight spaces one out of the chase. Total wattage will be around 40watts

40W is one sixth of an Amp - maybe a bit more for LEDs - say one third of an Amp.

1mm² T&E has a maximum rating of 16A.