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Indeed - the first mention of deltaT did prompt me to search, and the results pointed to difference between average rad temp and room temp. Hence my post #9. But the maths revealed that definition of deltaT probably wasn't the one intended. I didn't do anything at the boiler. I opened all...

Sorry - just catching up with the comments. Boiler is Vaillant ecotec plus 630. Radiators are from trads/carron and are victorian style - https://www.tradscastironradiators.co.uk/radiators/cast-iron-radiators/victorian-4-column/ Valves I think are cassellie -...

Oh - never come across this before. So rather than thinking about a 12 deg drop across the rad, I should be thinking of achieving an average rad temp? E.g. target room temp is 20deg Target deltaT = 20deg, deltaT = average rad temp - target room temp Therefore, average rad temp = 40 deg Average...

Yes, rads are new (3 years) but traditional cast iron style.

We put an extension on our victorian terrace using up the side return. The suspended timber floor used to vent into the side return. When the contractor built the extension, he used some 110x54 rectangular ducting to redirect the vent 90 degrees and out the side of the newly built party wall. So...

Thanks Madrab. I've got just one underfloor heating area - in the kitchen. It's handled by a wunda manifold which has three loops, each with their own flow meter. I was able to get the UFH balanced quite nicely at the manifold. There are lever valves on the UFH in the boiler room too and in...

Thanks muggles No idea why it's half shut like that. The original installer went bust before commissioning so someone else filled up the rads and commissioned it but didn't have time (inclination?) to do all the balancing. Can't be sure which one of them put the lever at half way, but suspect...

I did a lot of balancing of rads in our house, but by the time I got to the final rads furthest away from the boiler, I just couldn't get the right temp drop even with the lockshields wide open. In fact one of those three rads struggles to get any significant heat at all. I wonder if there...

Hmm. So have both fresh supply and recirc. Use the fresh supply when the reservoir is low, and the recirc when the reservoir is high. Or even, irrigation is only ever from the reservoir. But have a secondary filling system that adds a bit to the reservoir when it gets too low. Definitely...

Great suggestions all. I'm aiming for a completely automatic system - one which I don't have to remember to check the water level in the reservoir and one that won't run out of water if we ever get to go on holiday again. Yes, thinking of a simple float switch like this in the drip tray to...

There's a drip irrigation system like you might put in the garden. That goes at the top of the living wall and the water trickles down some felt, And any excess drips into the tray. So should be small amounts, but will build up over a few days I guess

Would just get a 12V plug for the wall. The pump linked above is only 2A. So I was thinking something like this

Yikes! they're big and expensive. I was more down at the £10 mark for a mini pump. Maybe one of these little 12V inline pumps might do it . It says that it's self priming, so I hope that means I could put the pump outside of the drip tray. Then I could make sure the pump is at the very lowest...

Bother. I thought gravity might take care of it as long as the standpipe was higher than the point where it connected to the trap under the sink. :( Not sure I'm going to be able to avoid creating an air lock because the pipe is going to have to go up and over the side of the drip tray, then...

I'm building a living wall where the water will drip down to a tray more or less at floor level. What's the best/simplest way of getting that run-off water to the waste under the sink? The living wall is at the end of the run of kitchen units and so it's a straight line to the sink about 2.5m...

Here's a photo. Landscaper must have taken the flexicon off today. Not sure why. Edit : none of these cables are live. They are yet to be connected.

Yes. That's great. Got it straight in my mind now. The one thing that I find strange though is how the original electrician left the grey PVC cable coming out of the wall into the garden. It emerges from the wall and then goes into a wiska box after about 50cm. He'd slipped some metal Flexicon...

Yes, thank you all. Definitely happy now that I can have my three (four!) switched lives.

The fact that you guys have just found me a fourth line gives me an idea.Perhaps I can use that fourth one to put a light in my shed. In that case though, The switch for the shed light would be in the shed (ie downstream of the external junction box) rather than with the other switches indoors...

Great. On one of the switch lines can I have two 'spurs', one for 240v fittings and one for 12v with a transformer? (all turned on and off at the same time by a single switch of course ) Edit:excuse any incorrect terminology, eg wrong use of the word spur