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Fail. Diagram attached now I hope

Diagram attached. The stuff in pencil is what is currently there. The green, purple and orange felt tip describes what I'd like to add: ie three sets of lights, each set on its own switch inside (where the feed is) . The two 3 core cables follow the same path, and were laid at the same time...

Ooh! this is interesting. There is just one feed into the patress box, so all power for the garden lighting comes from one MCB on the consumer unit (I believe there are other interior lights on that MCB too but would have to double check to be sure). I haven't chosen the fittings yet so don't...

Yes, the cable is the three core stuff with grey pvc on the outside, then black, brown & grey inside and a bare copper for earth.

Damn. When we embarked on our full house renovation, I hadn't thought about the garden in detail, so I just told the contractor to allow for three circuits outside. Now a couple of years later, we're finally getting round to the garden. Opened up the junction box in the garden, expecting to see...

I've got two three core cables (i.e. three core and earth) running to a junction box in my garden from the switch panel inside. Can I have three different lighting circuts using those two cables? I.e. treating the six cores as if they were like three pairs, rather than two triples?

Thanks guys. I'm not going to be plastering it though. I'm going to put a green wall on it, which starts with a sort of plastic board screwed/fixed to the breeze block. So I'll need to fill the gaps first. So should I just use bonding to seal the holes.? I'm surprised that we go to all this...

Hi all - this chilly weather has highlighted some drafts in my new kitchen extension! I have a new external wall that runs along one side of the kitchen and then meets the original victorian brick wall (that used to be exterior) at right angles to form a corner of the room. I don't know exactly...

Thanks @KenGMac. Damn! Just remembered that the render goes under a soldier course at the top, which has a gentle arch (not seen in the photos). I wonder if I'll be able force the timber to that shape without steaming. Aside from that though, another plus for timber is ease of installation -...

Thanks @KenGMac, The reveal or return or whatever it's called is 140mm, plus about 30mm adhesive and brickslips so about 170mm to the face of the brickslips. So what timber would you suggest? Mdf or pine or other? And just a square edge or would some sort of moulding be more fitting here?

Hi, The french doors that were doors to the garden are now internal doors due to our extension. I want to tidy up the bricks and render and would be grateful for your advice. Currently the ends of the brick that form the reveal are rendered and then the render is painted white. I want to...

Thanks @Notch7 Do you paint those stop beads? And how do you stop a crack appearing between the plaster and the bead along the length of the bead?

Oh I don't know. Please could you give me a bit more info on how would it work with wet plaster? I still can't see how you conceal the return edge of that bead - the one that meets the exposed brick. Maybe I'm not picturing it right. o_O

Thanks @securespark. Does that go on like a normal corner bead to the plasterboard face, but then clasp round the edge of the plasterboard? If so, I can understand how the plasterboard face will look neat - just like plasatering up to a normal external corner. But what about the other side of...

Hi all, I've scoured the web and can't see examples of how this is done - or I'm using the wrong search terms. I can't imagine this is unusual though, so please, please help me out. Here's the scenario: Two brick walls (inside my house) meeting at a right angle external corner. If I wanted...

Thanks @dazlight. Would you mind taking a look at my other question about starting at the bottom and using a knee kicker here: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/do-i-need-to-treat-the-end-of-a-stair-runner-to-stop-fraying.562907/#post-4860948

Yep - got some underlay cos the builders didn't get the staircase finished in time so the carpet fitter left the runner and the underlay for me to do. What's the best way to do this? Should I cut some of the landing underlay away so the join isn't right at the top of the stairs and so that the...

Thanks footprints. My carpet is actually loop rather than pile, so I just tested the tacks on an offcut and they really pull the carpet. So even though you don't really see the black head of the tack, it does look a bit like way the buttons pull the material in on a Chesterfield sofa. Now...

I'm about to install a carpet runner. The edges down the length are nicely done with binding tape. Do I need to do anything to the cut edges of the runner at the top and bottom and the cut edge of the landing carpet? At the top: Am I right in thinking that I will just be butting the top edge up...

I'm about to fit a carpet runner down my typical victorian terrace staircase. The treads are nice and thick and have a bull nose. (see pics attached). I suppose I will roll the landing carpet tight round the bull nose of the top step, cut it where it meets the riser and use cut tacks to secure...