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thanks rich some areas were bonded where required and skimmed, other areas were just skimmed alone... i let it dry naturally, be on safe side

ive had my room plastered, its almost dry, but certain areas around window is not drying up due to the weather i believe... im getting my wardrobes fitted and needed to paint walls before then. is there anything i can do to help dry up these specific patches of plaster which is still wet...

im having a room plastered, after the backing(thistle) bonding was done, an hour later it was skimmed over. the other side of the wall wont be skimmed till tommorrow now. the question is if i bonded a area of the wall today(using thistle bond coat) and am skimming it tommorw, can i skim...

the reason he said to drill some holes in the plasterboard was to let any heat generated by the downlights naturally escape. they are only very small holes made by a small drill piece. however i understand ban all shed saying not to allow ventilation, but the way is see it, that if a little...

i was in a similar situation, i had new insulation laid in the loft which had downlighters. The nICC guy said before he gave me a certificate i had to cover them, and advised me to make a box over them , made out of plasterboard and drill some holes in them for ventilation. so i got some...

thanks rocky. i might just leave it as it is, all the wires are secure in the junction box and also the connector block with the earths going in. nothing is loose etc.. I have a RCD consumer unit, and nothing has ever tripped on it, so i assume all is good//

so rocky if it was left as it is, its still safe is it for all the earths to be going into a seperate connector block? i knw its best for all the wires to be in the junction box, but it being left as above wont cause no issues? im not really a electrician so dont want to tamper with...

i just changed the light in my bathroom, and noticed it has been wired as follows: the 2 feeds coming in for the light first go into a junction box, then to the light. the earth wire for these 2 feeds dont go tot he junction box, they go into a seperate connector block. the pull cord earth...

How soon after applying thistle bonding, can you plaster? whats the wait time? also should you pva over plasterboard, or apply directly?

hi in my bathroom i have installed a new pull cord light, which works fine. every 2 months or so the red wire inside the pull cord gets disconnected from the screw, and i have to screw it back inside. why is this happening? i have tightened the wire inside the screw, so whats the reason?

so as the wires are under a floor, what should i do?? can i ask why using the plastic connector blocks are not safe???

i have been re-wiring the power sockets in my room. its on a upstairs ring main. the two cable feeds(2.5) coming into the room wasnt long enough, so i joined the wires using plastic connector blocks (the ones with the screw on top), and then taped them around with red tape to cover them. is...

i have just installed a vanity unit, and these sinks are not normally deep. and the pressure of water from the tap causes alot of splashback. if i was to reduce the turn of the isolation valves to the hot and cold, i.e put the screw on the valve so its half closed/open will this help restrict...

Hi i bought some cupboards from ikea to install in my bedroom. i have a chimney breast, and on one side i cant fit the cupboards as they are 10cm over the space i have in that area. the space width i have is 98cm, and the cupboard width is 110cm now can i safely cut the cupboards to fit...

hi the chimney is not live. its not in use, it also runs downstairs to the front lounge. but removing it is not a option. could i get away with removing anything from the side of the chimney breast, say even 3-5 cm?? would this be safe?

I need to install a cupboard in my room next to the chimney breast. but it wont fit as the chimney breast gets in the way. will it be ok for me to chisel away 10cm from the side of the chimney breast from one side only to help make the cupboard fit?? i was intending to use a chisel and...

great tip kev, i used the lsx compound /leak sealer around the olive and tightened back up, and hey presto no leak. im so happy, :D

they are soldered joints...

whats the best way to remove lsx sealer around copper pipe and a nut. i used some to try and seal a leak, but didnt work. now i want to remove the nut and take of the valve. so how do i get the compund of cleanly?

so do u put ptfe on the olive when its sitting on the copper pipe or do u put it on the olive then place into the isolation valve and tighten?