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I saw this breaker with non-replaceable carbon brushes. Does it mean that it is for disposable use only? Use once / a few times, and when it dies just discard? https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb811drh-16-4kg-hex-shank-electric-breaker-230v/326vv Would it not make sense to be able to replace...

For sealing small gaps for insulation, it seems it would work OK. Of course I wouldn't use it to glue broken axe or hammer with it :D

Google seems using the word fireproof bricks for the fire bricks. "How can you tell if bricks are fireproof? Firebricks are commonly whitish or pale yellow, though there may be other colors. They will be very exact in dimensions and edges, though used ones may have chips and ragged edges...

Under fire everything will burn down to dust unless it is fireproof material.

I had thrown out loads of polystreyne and we had always aceton bottles everywhere in the house when the daughters were staying in the house. I think acetones were used to clean off their nail polish. So, I don't see acetone and polystreyne mix can cause health hazards more than acetone itself...

OK, thanks for your advice. Will have a go with the replacement job sooner or later.

Is there any chemical that could loosen the frozen up bolt with the adhesive? How about the carb cleaner or acetone?

For my use, I would imagine it being useful for sealing gaps between the glass and window frames for the better insulation of the old windows.

If they can be made into good quality waterproof glue or epoxy by simply mixing with acetone, it would be cool. It will save the cost for buying them.

I am planning to cut off the copper pipe above the plastic TEE, and replace it with new 15mm copper pipe using 22 to 15 reducer with another full bore valve in the link, and connect it with either with 90 elbow to the new flot valve or bending the new 15mm pipe 90 into the new float valve. But...

I have taken a break for the holiday. Fortunately the old float valve has been working with the bent arm. But it really has to be replaced with the new one. And now I see part of the old copper pipe feeding it has problems too. Close inspection on the photos reveal the copper pipe is in bad...

I have ran the shower, and while it was running, went up to the loft, and shut the mains rising pipe to the cold tank. When I went to the shower, it reduced the water flow by 80%. It was still flowing the water, but it was obvious that the mains rising pipe shut off has reduced the water flow...

Yes, that was what I was guessing, but wasn't sure 100%. But it seems the most plausible case. I am going to switch on the shower, and shut the mains rising full bore valve, and see what will happen to the shower water flow tomorrow. Will update here with the result.

The only drinking water we use is the incoming mains water pipe straight to the kitchen cold water tap. All the rest taps are for washings and toilet cisterns.

Is there any possibility that the old float valve in the water tank could be undone, and detached from its own fitting juist like the new Type2 float valves? Now I have got big Bahco spanners and Pipe Wrenches, and can attack the old float valve trying to undo it. But just wondering if it is...

Yes, this is a part of the bunch of different problems of the old water system in this house.

I have been suspecting it could be the electric shower. But when the pipe was filling in the water tank, instead of sending out water, I was totally lost. Could it be some type returning water in the chain?

Yes, we have this old immersion heater boiler / expansion tank in the kitchen. The heater has stopped working - maybe it has burnt the element in the tank due to age. It still seems storing and feeding water to the taps to the upstairs bath, and also downstairs shower room basin taps...

Thanks for your confirmation.