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Cheers JD. There is a very good calculator online which I used. They recommend the same - energy saving bulbs throughout and topping up insulation - but that would still only up it from a D to a C.....

FWIW, I am assuming that the (hep?) pipes are feeding rads (seems to be 22mm reduced at Ts to 15 for rads) Question is what the copper pipe fed/was feeding. You may be right JD that they have used an isolator instead of a stop end but why not cut the pipe shorter rather than leave it embedded in...

Good call but I am still stumped as to where that pipe goes or comes from. Surely there can't be a pipe inside the cavity?

Mods - please feel free to move this if it ought not to be here... Any wise peeps on here able to say how much notice buyers take of these energy certificates. I'd never heard of them until today. Been doing a bit of research and my house didn't come out very well. Going to be selling in the...

Image 4 seems to show a top-down view. What is behind the wall at the bottom of the picture? Another room? Does he have a cylinder?

Ignore my last. I've seen it better in one of the other photos.

What's the second photo a picture of? (the one called image 3) Is that wet on the pipe at the T junction?

Just my tuppence worth but.... The copper pipe appears to have an isolation valve fitted. This suggests it is either feeding something or something is feeding it (I can't see the valve direction on the pic) Are you sure there isn't something on the end??

I could go down the pub for the week but I don't think that would go down well with SWMBO!!

I finished the second coat on Sunday afternoon. I am ready to gloss but didn't want to mess it all up by applying the topcoats too soon. However, it occurred to me that tradespersons wouldn't be waiting a week to apply the finishing coat(s) hence why I asked. Basically, I need to know if it...

Have given some woodwork 2 coats of Bullseye 123. All fine and happy with the product. The top coat will be standard gloss. My question is how long to leave the 123 before the topcoat? MIs state that 123 is hard dry after 7 days so was wondering whether it is best to leave the 123 for that...

Thanks EFL, Makes sense. :D

Thanks PB. The cabling in the loft is just the upstairs lighting circuit (ceiling roses and wall switches) AFAIK, it is all in 1mm T&E. This circuit has its own MCB rated 6A (when I say rated I mean the MCB is labelled as 6A) The insulation is the itchy roll stuff (which I found to my cost)...

Hmmm...That's not going to be easy. All the cabling in the loft space is covered by insulation and, as far as I can tell, has been like that since the cabling was done [well over 20 years ago] Not enough play in any of the lighting cables to raise them above the insulation so would mean...

Thanks again PB. That's put my mind at rest!

Apologies if I ought to have created a new thread but.... Purchased the Ashley box with the intention of fitting it. However, I am concerned that the box clearly states DO NOT COVER. Before I fit it, I would like to be assured that it's fit for the purpose hence asking for advice on here. I...

Thanks for the reply PB. Much appreciated.

There is a 4 -spot halogen fitting in our small bedroom which I intend to replace with a bog standard pendant fitting (ceiling rose etc.) However, on tracing the cable back into the attic, it ends (starts) in an old junction box alongside the switch and circuit wiring. As I intend to floor the...

Thanks chaps. Only wondered about DS tape as the most likely site on a wall would be on the chimney breast which I am somewhat reluctant to drill into given it has all the BBU pipework behind it. I do take on board the point about adhesive though. Will probably ask my CH engineer as he fitted...

Hello all After a visit by my heating engineer yesterday (see old thread now updated) he mentioned that I need a carbon monoxide detector because I have a BBU (Baxi Bermuda) Couple of questions: (1) Is this now mandatory or merely advisory? (2) He mentioned the siting of the detector is...