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I have recently repainted our bathroom and have the same problem. I sealed the plaster with mist coats originally and used Dulux bathroom paint, Natural Hessian. That sat fine for 9 years with no signs of problems. Then now I haved put 2 new coats of Dulux bathroom Overt Olive on, there appears...

I bought a new IP65 rated light as our bathroom one started flickering and I was pretty certain the type of light had no business being in a bathroom anyway, confirmed by the amount of rust and not being sealed. I took down the old one and it was a bit tight to see and some of the wiring...

Yes that should prevent it happening again but I was asking how best to treat what is already there?

Thanks. I started a while ago taking more care of condensation after reading up on it. What would be the best way to treat it?

Hopefully this is the right forum... I was just wondering if what you can see in this photo is damp and what I should do about it? I've never noticed it before as the room is quite dark as curtains are always drawn, it is far more pronounced in the pictures than looking at the wall...

Thanks. I forgot to say I am using surface mounted locks with knobs to replace old ones that are a different size - will this make a difference?

Was just wondering what is the correct type of drill bit to use to make a hole for the spindle of new door handles? The doors are solid wood.

As per the title really, we have just had the doors stripped and received them back today but they are still pretty wet from the process. I know they may not fit and may later need planing, but assuming they do fit, is it safe to rehang them?

[/url] The doors now are about 2015mm-2010mm and I need to take a little off for laminate so will be looking at 2010-2005. It seems to be ok in width though so no problem there.

Thanks. I think thats a little too advanced for my skill levels and time is also pressing here. I'll see if I can ge a joiner out to supply and fit I think.

Going by the door I have now, I am after 4mm from each side which is OK. But would have to be 10-11mm from the top AND bottom so obviously thats a no just the same :(

We're wanting to replace some doors in the house but want to do it for about £40 to £50 max per door. This seems to leave us with a choice of pine panneled doors from B & Q as the only option due to the sizes with it being an old flat, but all the doors they sell say only 5mm can be trimmed...

Can someone recommend a good reliable online store that sell cheap circular saw blades? It’s only to lay a couple of laminate floors so I don’t need anything too expensive. Preferably a store where they can tell you if the item is in stock. Have ordered a couple from toolsinstock.co.uk but...

Cheers will give that a go.

So probably get one made specially at a joiners yard? The door frame is 11-12 inches wide and about 3ft 2in accross so not very standard.

Before I lay laminate in my living room I need a little advice how to cover the gap between the room and the adjoining kitchen. There is a 2-3 centimeter gap between the kitchen laminate and the top of the floorboards from the living room so a reducer is no good. The door frame also has a...

Was just wondering if anyone had experience of tiling glass mosaics with a slight transparency? The ones I will be using are here: http://www.binibi.co.uk/gbu0-prodshow/BNB4M-107.html When you hold them to the light there is a small amount of transparency. The cards came mounted on a...

Not to sound argumentative, but if I knew what was right I wouldnt have asked. All I'm saying is I have never seen them. Even If I had seen the sockets it wouldnt have meant I knew everything else was right with a setup. I've seen stand alones in cooker sockets etc. But not built under...