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Thanks, I eventually managed to get it off but in doing so (using a screwdriver for leverage), made a right mess of the flimsy dome shaped cover that screws on the thread of the nut that keeps the cartridge cover (see photos). I couldn't work out why the handle was so hard to remove, it wasn't...

Yes, it isn't at all loose...

The following two images show a mixer tap that I'm trying to take apart so that I may replace the stiff ceramic cartridge. I've popped off the red / blue plastic cover and that has revealed a 2mm hex grub screw inside but unscrewing that seems to have had no effect. The threaded bar doesn't seem...

It's possible to buy a prepared board with coat hooks pre-mounted e.g. https://www.therange.co.uk/_m3/1/3/1459890923_941.jpg Does anyone know if it's possible to buy these kinds of prepared boards but without the hooks? I'd like to choose my own hooks at a different spacing but have no idea how...

You'd think but it's tighter than a ... I suspect it's southern jessie limescale!

Could you do me (even more of) a favour and find me a photo or some to buy? I don't see how you get the inversion on the ones I'm finding...

OK, I was nervous but that did it! Now I'm left with an inverted hex type arrangement (see attached). What does one call the tool I need for this?

Hi, did you mean the one in the thumbail for this video? I'm lacking the grub screw or a cover that may be hiding a grubscrew...

OK, I got the shaft off and it hasn't helped. I also tried putting a hex key in the hole left by the shaft in case there was a grub screw at the bottom...

The shaft won't move (if you look closely you can see where I've buggered up the thread trying) and there's no grub screw that I can see nor any covers where a grub screw may be hidden underneath. If it was the shaft, wouldn't there be a flat on it or some other way to get purchase on it? I'm...

Can someone remind me how to take this tap (see attached photo) apart? I've done it years ago but can not remember how! I've unscrewed the lever but the remaining shaft won't budge. I have a feeling I had to take the dome underneath off but it won't budge so I don't want to force it unless I'm...

The electric towel rail is currently connected via a fused spur switch that is outside the bathroom (the cable passes through a wall). It's also fed with hot water via the gas central heating but I assume that's irrelevant. I wanted more sophisticated control of the towel rail so I replaced the...

The existing pipe goes across the back of the cupboard and I'd like to keep any new plumbing up against the back wall so as not to waste any space. Cheers

Ah OK, that wouldn't quite work as my T would be pointing up and the end of the 'hockey stick' would be horizontal (and I need to keep it all in one plane) but as a previous poster suggested, a right angle joint would turn the end of the 'hockey stick' into an S trap... Thanks!

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the hockey stick type trap, can you find a picture? Thanks!

That's all well and good but it's no use for adding into an existing horizontal(ish) waste pipe as I described in my original post. Thanks for trying!

I have finally got around to this little job and have discovered a problem. I was planning to add a swept T join into the existing 'horizontal' waste pipe and then have an S trap above that with a couple of feet of vertical on top for the washing machine outlet to feed into. My problem is that...

Would the self-cutting one not still need a trap between it and the waste stack or does the non-return valve replace a trap?

I'm planning on moving my washing machine from the kitchen to a large cupboard that is next to the kitchen. The waste pipe from the kitchen passes through the cupboard so I think I just need to add in an appropriate waste fitting for the washing machine. The existing waste pipe is about a foot...

OK, I've just made an alarming discovery about the electric panel heaters (all centrally controlled by relays and a timer unit) in my flat. Basically, the supply cables have perished and where their bad design has them entering the units in a tight bend, all three metal cores are exposed...