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Might find readymix mortar is ok, should say what mix it is and what to use for- roughly. Wouldn't use richer than 4 to 1. and this may depend on which cement is used. Also you need an additive- name not known. (or a pva liquid instead). That's as much as I know.

Surefire- did the fitter use his chocolate lunch bar in mistake?

Many thanks Mr Winston, That method sounds more straight forward. My joists are 75mm*100mm, so the 90mm celotex is ok to fit hard against the floorboards underneath (I have about 1/3mtr air depth under the joists- but, the central heating pipes are suspended (and insulated) directly under the...

Many thanks, Mr.Winston. Could I ask further- Is celotex self supporting, and 'breathable' ? Or could you suggest how would it be suported ? (Apologies to jose the space for my worming in!) Thanks again all.

I am in the same situation with u/f insulation. and would like to know what this rot proof netting is? Also does loft glass wool insulation do ok-100mm thick? (I am like a duck popping up all over while I'm on this job) You may take a pot-shot! Thanks for any replies...

Thanks a bundle, ollski . It all becomes clear now. A great help- as I don't want to waste any time on this job (floor).

I have an underfloor drain to my central heating, and would like comments on whether its a good idea to put it elsewhere, as I have the foor up- or is it better to just leave a lose access board? Also, can I leave a gas supply pipe for a gas fire ready for an installer- if I have to make a...

I would feel like trying this: centre punch top of nail, then use a suitable sharp drill. But you might need a metal guide plate with a drill hole through that you can put your weight on to prevent slippage. After reducing head-punch to flatten. It's worth a try!

Thanks Jasonb, You've saved me a wasted journey to not hire a gun!- much appreciated. Can I ask though, since I've got so many to drive- are you quite sure that along the grain is definetly ok? Sorry to be a pain. (I should have had a 4page instruction book with them :) )...

Excuse my ignorance, but I've been given 'cut clasp'- flat taper nails. Do I drive these 'taper across' the floorboards or with the grain? Also, can I use a nail gun (65mm long)? Or is a hammer better? Thanks for any replies. :?

I think such a long pipe would be a cleaning nightmare, and the build up of grease would be a fire hazard. Still, would an external extractor be poss?

We thought you mitre!

masona- I think your second idea is best, as I've tried screwing down and it doesn't work too well- on my stairs anyway!

OK petewood- makes a change from a left hand thread! Should have said 'eccentric' (could design a tool for that)

Good advice, guys. I did wonder about the boards flexing, think I've tracked down some 22mm, which is near what I've got. I am progressing across the floor, sawing as I go. Only hope the findings improve- or I'll have to consider the gas oven! (quickest way out!). The edge of the boards look...

Thanks masona, some help- but now I feel like driving the car into the lake- windows shut!

I have the same system with an Ideal Standard boiler, and it does not permit pumping 'cold' water in the primery system. Cast iron may crack I suppose in certain circumstances. Suppose you could get away with delayed pumping- is that what you mean?

Well is it an excentric hole?

You'll find old/new furniture wood better for joinery- marvellous to work with compared with scraps of boxwood etc. You won't enjoy working with poor wood. Pallets are rubbish!

Thanks W-Y-L, Absolutely wouldn't dream of taking offence. Maybe my heading of 'new floor' should have been 'replacement floor'. Sadly no luck on the threads- seems not many dudes are brave/stupid enough to contemplate replacing a complete suspended ptg floor. However Ill wait for some answers...