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Has anyone had experience of regularly replacing dimmers? I do a bit of basic minor work in pubs and this one particular site seems to go through them more than others. Varilite 60 - 400 and well within the limits. Could a fluctuating supply damage them?

Can the output terminals be tested for voltage or does it have to be under load?

Can you get access to (or buy, they're quite cheap) a simple multi-meter?

Sorry to say but consider the money and time and aggro you've spent with this set up. Seriously, there are many other options out there. If you're interested just ask and Im sure you'll get a lot of constructive ideas that don't have to cost the earth.

I wouldn't use that socket as it very likely doesn't have any strain relief if the cable is pulled. For a quick fix, sure, get a fluorescent tube light and suspended it at high level. You could use 1mm 3 core flex with a plugtop from there to your socket outlet below.Use cable clips to keep out...

Would 22mm plumbing washers do the job? Or get a mini tube of silicone down the pound shop. It can be done without it looking like a bird sh@t all over it.

Could this socket outlet be supplied by a nearby switched Fused Control Unit?

Without a reply to our kind offers of help, we may never know! Maybe he did something silly and has gone into hiding through embaressment?

Replace the lamp and report back with your findings. And I can't make sense of your 1st paragraph. Could you elaborate?

Can't believe I've never seen or heard of these before.

Never seen these before! What kind of plug (top?!) goes into them?

Not jumping on the bandwagon but I dislike these downlights for reasons that the OP might want to consider. The glare from them when underneath I find particularely irritable to the point where I won't go to a pub/restaurant because of them. And no, I refuse to wear a baseball cap. Yes, LED's...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beverley_Goodway http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirley_Crabtree

Turn your power off at the fusebox/consumer unit before going round with screwdriver. Cables will still be live though lights are switched off.

That'll be the dreaded Phantom New Years Eve Loose Screw Gremlin. Possibly.

It'll require a load in order to test and yes you can connect it to the mains to test but first check if the input is 230v. All the trannys I've seen have details on the housing. Have you made sure the lamps themselves are ok? Are the termination points clean/free of grease etc?

Beware, the transformer might not 'show' 12v unless the lamp is plugged in. I'm guessing you've got some kind of multi-meter? Hopefully you can use this to check continuity on the lamp. Check where the lamp terminates too. Edit: I'm 90% sure that your 12v G4 will use the same transformer as a...

Don't know why it went bang but nice photography.

Before you do anything else, you may find you have got an earth where the cable terminates into your light fitting, but that its been hidden because your existing fitting didn't require an earth. Turn your power off, then peel back the sheath a bit to see if there's an earth tucked away. If...

Definitely sounds like lamp holder contacts. I would turn off ALL power at main switch, get a torch and long nose pliers and gently pull the top contact towards you. Do the same with the side contact with a thin screwdriver.