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Ahemm, yes, of course. Well, actually i meant the terminal block, but that's not suitable presumably?

Thanks Luminaire. Presumbaly this is the least-disruptive / most practical method to use?

I’m gonna replace a couple of loop-in ceiling rose lights with fluorescent tube lights in my kitchen. Do you have any tips or is there anything to watch out for? Presumably I will need to just join the loop-in live/neutrals/earths in choc-block and have a piece of 1.5mm T+cpc from the choc-block...

...just did a search on the net for those figures. Thanks for the info.

...wouldn't that depend on the power consumption JohnD? I don't know, I'm just asking. I'm guessing a typical washer would be around 500W and Dishwasher 1500W. 9 Amps total?

d) I would think.

I thought that I had stated that I did not contemplate this work. I will remember to make this very very clear next time, although others seemed to have realised. In asking the question I do prove that I am not competent to do this work. Again, others took this for granted and did not find a...

Thanks Hi-spec. I'll give it a go on Saturday. I plan to use the self-solder joints to extend the 15mm pipes. Presumably they work OK?

...ok, so by isolating the flow/return, there should be minimal dumping of water when I disconnect the rad?

Creameeg: I should have learnt by now that the background is not important. I am bright enough to work out if I'm competent to do a particular job. Asking a question does not automatically deem a person 'not competent' otherwise no one on this forum would get anything done. I did say, "out of...

Cheers Bahco. I was rather hoping for an explanation of how to do it without draining!!! Unfortunately I do not have a header tank (just a combi downstairs), so I guess the bung (whatever that is) is out of the question? Thanks.

A friend of mine said that they nearly asked me if I could move a CU a couple of feet. I said "probably not if the cables required lengthening". Just out of interest, what would this involve? Would you just crimp/shrink wrap all of the cables to extend them? What testing would be required...

I want to move an upstairs radiator about 1m on to a wall at 90 degrees to the current location. Is this possible without draining the system? Thanks.

Thanks SpaceCat. A comprhensive reply.

I'm putting up a security light and am running the power from a spur upstairs, into the loft. The cable outside will be a suitable 1.5mm flex. The question is: would you run T+cpc from the spur to a JB in the loft and then connect the flex, or would you just run flex from the spur? Distance up...

Awww, now look breezer, you tricked me into having a look. And you know what. It said exactly what I imagined.

...great. Thanks. ...Sorry Moderator! I have not checked the link but I can imagine what is says.

Guys. Would this be any good for occasional use. probably the heaviest job I would use them for is a 16mm hole through a house using a 500mm bit. Also would use to chase out the odd channel for cables etc. (see link) http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=55238&ts=78368 I know there...

...Thanks Pugwash. That's what I thought but I had previously advised that equipment powered from a circuit (in this case the ceiling rose), should be fixed to the fabric of the building.

Can bedside lights be fixed to cupboards above bed (in a similar way that kitchen counter lights are fitted to the underside of cupboards) or do they have to be fixed to the wall? Thanks