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I would suggest you haggle to pay trade for at least one pcb, the second one shouldn’t be the complete unit including housing but just the module.

Dan their parts supply is second to none, all direct from the manufacturer. If the manufacturer still supply it bg will almost certainly have it in stock at NDC for next day delivery. I never got let down for even the most obscure part ever. If it’s not stocked they will use the normal supply...

I did 20 years at bg and left for the monitoring / soul destroying nature of the job. There was massive pressure for sales but more hives than boiler leads and there was never a company dictate to advise no parts available when they were....if that happens it’s purely on an individual engineers...

Sometimes microbore straight out of the wall needs to be lengthened as the ends will be crushed by the olive...guaranteed. My personal preference on these is to drop the rad slightly....unless someone knows of a deeper brand valve?

I did one a few years ago where I lifted a layer of dog hair and dust like a towel off the boiler unit all in one piece!. Don’t mind a baxi bbu though, not so keen on the thorns or the glow worms so much but I’d still rather see either than a warm air / water heater.

They are about 170 retail for the honeywells which make the noise so it’s not really ott as a retail price is it?

I’d assume the thinking is the scale would form in the tee in the expansion pipe and block it causing a sealed system with no overheat.

Well if he didn’t turn it off then there can’t have been any safety issues with it. Do get it serviced though, as Ianmcd said above they block and need washing through regularly.

Is this on a warm air unit?. Not sure what rusts around the burner as it’s suspended in mid air!. The flues rot and the heat exchanger fins corrode away but I’m struggling to visualise the issue you have unless it’s a completely different housing to what I’m thinking

Yep, bin live to 5 and straight swap

When they overheat the pump runs in bursts until the temperature drops. Could be pump, could be stepper motor. Get a decent engineer in who will guarantee his work...or worcester

Just put a valve at each end and run an extra little bit of microbore pipe to the far end, it’s just simpler than peeing about

0.03p plus 86.00 diagnostic fee! Bet that original vaillant surpressor looks exactly like the Worcester one....even down to the packet and part number!

This is true for all stores though, it would be a stupid pcb design that didn’t link the store pump with a heating demand otherwise you’d be pumping cold water, but my own memory could well be playing me up. I’m almost looking forward to seeing another!!

Its semantics really but the water demand takes about 30 mins to heat the store and then obviously needs to stay on keep the store at temperature as the rads deplete it. I haven’t seen one of the horrors for months but think the horstman clock fitted by default works like gravity clock and turns...

Well it doesn’t massively matter as it’s the hw demand which heats the store but the ch demand automatically turns hw demand on the same. That’s why it’s a ball ache to try and replace the built in unit with a dual channel.

Not quite what?, you said the same thing :-)

You can set your heating to constant and then use your hive as a heating timer and stat. Obviously it won’t operate unless the store is up to temperature which is controlled by whatever the hw side of the timer is set to so you want the water to come on about 30 minutes before the hive calls for...

It’s just wired into the room stat though, the original horstmann programmer still controls the main times

I usually fit them like the boilermates and fit a single channel to the room stat and then just leave the times as they were before.