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Hi, Looking to have my old wire fuse CU with a new full RCBO one. Currently have 11 circuits in the house so guess a 12 or 14 way box would do the job. I considered a split load box but the way the various circuits in our house are organised, there is no 'ideal' way to split the load...

Hi Simond, great info thanks. As it happens we have gone with a large boiler since we live in a location where we do have a few startlingly cold days each year (-15 degrees or so). This made sense to me since all the viessmann 100 compact boilers (13kw up to 26kw) all modulate down to the...

We're having a viessmann 100 compact boiler fitted to an existing s-plan system which is currently controlled by a programmable room thermostat and a timer for the hot water. All but one radiators have TRVs and, all in, the system works pretty well with the thermostat keeping a relatively...

We have a timber conservatory which was repaired after the roof sprung a leak last year (the old timber glazing bar caps had gone soft). Otherwise, the conservatory is in excellent condition and the actual glazing rafters are all solid and dry. The roof is large (about 3.6m x 8m) and slopes away...

Thanks for all the responses. Bit more info I should have provided: It's a heat only boiler on an s-plan system with an approx 150L hot tank. I agree, 30kW seems a bit high for our house but it is 300 years old with solid walls etc so it does lose heat very quickly. My guess is that the real...

Ajrobb, thanks for the input. All makes sense and tallies with my understanding. Just had a chat with Viessmann technical support and gas flow is apparently equivalent for both the 19kW and 26kW boilers when they are modulated down to their minimum 7.9kW. They also told me the 26kW would...

Looking to size the right boiler for our house. A combination of different roof/wall materials throughout the building though makes it tricky to provide accurate data for the various on-line boiler size calcs. I'm getting answers anywhere from 15kW up to 30kW. Our current boiler is inadequate...

No, didn't bother with that. Thought I'd try it without and see how it went. I hung a min/max thermometer down the back and kept an eye on that. Never drops below 5 degrees so I figured it didn't need it. I do keep the washing machine slotted neatly between the freezer and tumble drier though...

We had this problem last year but worked out a simple solution this year that has done the trick even down to an outdoor temp of -15 overnight. All I did was get a standard room thermostat (£7 off ebay) and wired it up to a 60w tube heater (the moisture-proof type used in greenhouses etc)...

Tony raises a good point and also gives you a wee debg tool. If the water temp does not increase as you reduce the flow then there may actually be something wrong and you might want to do a bit more investigation. As a nice definitive test, you could get a thermometer and measure the...

most likely just the weather. I'm guessing your boiler is a combi. Most combis can achieve around a 35 degree 'lift' in water temperarture (water temp in to water temp out). Some achieve a bit more but let's say 35 degrees for now. Water from the cold tap will be anywhere from just above 0...

What people are saying (sort of) is that there is not much between them. They are both decent brands but similarly there will no doubt be fitters and owners who have horror stories relating to both (there always are). Most important (IMHO) with these things is to find an RGI who you are...

Bengasman raises a fair point. The older 15/50 pumps did draw 150w at full speed but it would have to be a very small bypass loop and boiler for this much energy to heat it significantly. iep

tube heater (60w or so) and a frost thermostat so it only runs when needed. Cheap to install and will make a huge difference. I use this set up in my gagrage behind the washing machine to protect it in winter. iep

As bengasman says, there must be some heat source involved here. There are two scenarios possible given what you have described: 1. The gate valve in your system (the one being used as a bypass) is working fine (by which I mean it has been left suitably open (not too much, not too little). In...

I did exactly this job back in July this year and reckon it is a fairly simple job (very much diy-able with modern materials) depending on access. Did mine with a 22mm main feed and 15mm spurs off. 10mm would probably have been fine but I like to overengineer. I oversized my rads as much as...

I had a similar issue and solved it by gluing a piece of plywood to the underside of the hole using silicon and then carefully cutting a tile so that it dropped neatly into the hole above the plywood (I cut the tile to be an octagon so it fitted without too much space around the sides). I then...

Wow camel307, that's some pretty serious attitude from a guy looking for help. What you still have not made clear is the distance from the cylinder to the pump and the gauge of pipework used. You have also suggested that the pump shares pipework from the cylinder with other outlets. Can...

I carried out exactly this procedure two weeks back on my vented system. In our case pumpover had introduced a load of air into the system and the subsequent corrosion left the water a horrible brown colour. I don't think it had got to the sludged up stage yet but wanted to do more than drain...

We have an Aga Litle Wenlcok which (I think) is about 4.5kW. We manage to heat a large room (8mx4mx2.7m) using this stove alone. However, when first installed I did not do a good enough job of sealing the register plate and we got much less air flow through the stove and the heat output was...