Search results

We've had the electrickery for a while now!

Thanks all - I was hoping to find these in Edinburgh or somewhere that does next day delivery.

I need to replace MCBs in my consumer unit (one is overrated and another is underrated) with 32A MCBs. Consumer unit is MK, but Screwfix and Toolstation (and every other shop!) seem to be out of stock of MK MCBs. Are there any other brands that are compatible with MK? The MK ones I'm looking for...

I've ordered one from AO.com for £200 and it's got a 2 year warranty... if it fails a few years down the line then it can just be swapped out. Assuming I can get hold of the electrician to install power for it! He's being elusive...

I saw a Bosch one on John Lewis's site for £318 - a plug in one, but it gets very good reviews. I would still like to get a wired-in one to make sure it's not short of power, even if it's rare to have more than one ring on full whack.

Nice! What model is it please? I'm thinking a dedicated power supply is the way to go, whilst the kitchen is being refitted... Covid permitting!

Doing a kitchen refit and we were planning to fit a gas hob. We are temporarily without any fitted hob as I throw out the old knackered cooker and installed a built-in (eye-level) oven. In the meantime, I got single-ring plug-in induction hob from Lidl and I'm so impressed with it that I am now...

Thanks for the answers folks - I will put it above the existing socket, in line with it.

How far is that switch from the side of the tall cabinet? Is it at least 300mm?

See photo. We're installing this eye-level oven in a tower unit. Unfortunately the switch has been installed behind the tower, above the oven - the original thinking was to have the switch in the cupboard above the oven, but I understand that's not a good idea, so we need to move it. I was...

The hob has a plug on it.

It's our house. Access to this will be rare as the hob only needs power to create a spark and the extractor has its own power switch of course. I'm installing the kitchen myself and had a spark rewire it a couple of months back. I think he found it very tricky due to the 1950s post-war...

See attached image. This socket is for a gas hob that will be in the kitchen unit (with drawers) that goes in front of here. The switch next to it is an isolator for a spur off the ring circuit, the cable for which runs up the wall for an extractor hood. The switch and socket could remain here...

That's good, because I haven't!

Any advice on whether I should wet the plywood before laying it? It won't be right up to the skirting - only as far as to go under the front legs of the units. I will cut another strip for the rear legs.

I went with hardwood 5.5mm plywood from Wickes. Do I need to wet it before laying it? What is featheredge? Is that a pva glue solution to the joins and screwheads? I'm also having trouble finding screws short enough - I would prefer 20mm, but seems the shortest is 25mm. Floorboards are 18mm...

Barely a drop spilt! The only water that came out was the little dribble in the bits of pipe I was removing! I suppose I better turn the heating on and check it's not leaking before I open up all the isolating valves on all the rads again...

Ok, all rads isolated at both sides and I've also isolated the flow and return at the boiler, which is off, of course... Well, the heating is off anyway. Plus I released the remaining pressure in the system by opening the bleed valve and opening both valves at the bottom... And closed them...

Unfortunately that's all I've got and I think they will have to do the job for now. If they fail, I can replace them with speedfit couplers when there's a replacement rad in place.

Boiler is a combi - Glow Worm Ultimate 30c.i'll have a look to see if I can isolate the flow and return. The isolation valves I've gone for are these. Seems to be conflicting advice on their suitability...