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I suspect it hasn't been balanced, although I don't think there's an issue with any rads not getting hot. The boiler is upstairs and there's only one rad up there in an open plan loft conversion. Will note how many turns to close it off anyway.

How do I release pressure on the system? There's a bathroom rad with an opening on the top which I used to put inhibitor in before refilling the system the last time - I could leave that one turned on and open that nut at the top... Or will that just mean water all over the bathroom?

They're not called SpeedFit for nothing! I'll turn off the other rads - good tip!

I've removed a radiator and eventually going to replace it with a different type of radiator, but I need to remove the previous radiator valves from the pipes and cap off the pipes with isolation valves. I've thought of a squeeze-off tool but don't want to damage the pipe. I've also thought of...

I guess the worst that could happen is that the system would drain under the floor - wouldn't be the first time that's happened, since our dodgy plumber forgot to put an insert in and a joint failed! (At the same spot actually...)

I am actually going to connect a plinth heater to the existing pipes, so I will still be using the pipes. We're refitting the kitchen and removed a radiator to allow more unit space.

I've removed a radiator from our central heating system by closing the rad valves and emptying it. I now need to remove the valves and cap off the pipes, so can I safely clamp the pipes for long enough to do this? I would rather avoid draining the whole system.

The floor looks level and the boards are in good condition.

I guess the idea is so that the lines of the floorboards will not show through a vinyl floor covering.

We're getting a new kitchen - the house has traditional floorboards. We're going to lay vinyl on it, so will need to lay board on top of the floorboards to level it. Would plywood be the right material for this? What thickness is recommened?

Yes, it's on the quote and invoice. I suspect he was hoping I wouldn't notice.

Successfully repaired the heating - once all the radiators were isolated there wasn't much water to collect when I removed the leaking elbow. It was leaking because the insert was only half in, plus the middle washer on it was broken. Amateur stuff really. In the course of this repair and...

2. It's Speedfit - I asked the guy, so I will go down there with a spare elbow and inserts in case I need to replace the whole thing - for the sake of a few quid I'd rather avoid more than one trip under the floor! 4. All valves to boiler should be brand new as it's all a new system... If I...

1. The cowboy installer has been back numerous times but is no longer anywhere nearby. Nice guy - bad plumber! He's offered fo rsomeone to come and have a look but I'd rather not deal with the hassle of numerous visits and continued disruption whilst we have no heating or hot water. 2. 15mm...

I need to possibly replace an elbow joint under the floor as it is leaking quite badly. This is due to a cowboy heating engineer install less than a year ago - I'd reported the elbow as dripping previously but it had later stopped - not sure if the engineer just tightened it, but I need to...

He's certainly Gas Safe registered - that must count for something!

Byelaw 49 mentioned here: http://www.screwfix.com/p/climaflex-pipe-insulation-28-x-19mm-x-1m-48-pack/99726

Thanks for the tip - I will make sure he brings the right type.

Yes - I checked that - definitely barrier pipe.

Not really an option as the system is full now! I will ask him when he comes back... but surely as a Gas Safe registered engineer this is not something he should be skimping on!