Search results

I thought that was no longer the case. Don't have my regs to hand, but seem to remember that there is no longer a need for a "hallway". Maybe wrong thought :!:

Depending on type of floor construction, that could be the worst place! I don't think it would hurt to check with an engineer just to make sure you don't lose your nice fishes through the possibly big hole in the floor :shock:

Has that changed in the new regs? I seem to remember Max 220, min going 225? Or is that for an internal :oops: Can't remember!

A bit of discussion here: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=52812 The cavity tray stops any water penetrating the brick work above the new conservatory opening from making it's way inside. You may get away with not having one depending on what elevation you are on (shelter), but...

That's your bricks sorted, just dont forget to make sure that the floor can take the 6 tonnes in weight.........

My experience is predominately timber frame, but I can offer the following: 1) I don't think this approach would matter too much, but I (like you) would prefer to see the plaster built up from the brick 2) The cavity needs to be closed and the reveal plastered as above. Without closure I...

What is the span of the joist and how far is the hole from the nearest bearing? If it is between 0.25xthe span and 0.4xthe span and the hole is no greater than 42mmdia you should be ok. Otherwise you will need to demonstrate by calcualtion that your route will not effect the stability of the...

Just don't float the area where the two concrete surface are to come into contact - leave the face as rough and "jaggy" as possible to ensure a good construction joint when the second lift is placed. Also, damp the surface prior to the second pour - helps avoid shrinkage at the joint.

You could try chicken wire over the timber to give the plaster a key, but to be honest I think it would look bodgy and isn't really a good solution. Start again and follow Noseall's solution - good practice for the next time :-)

If your garden is that tight I would be more concerned with the party wall act and make sure you don't bother next doors (or your own) foundations 8)

I would agree with that solution, simplest by far.

:-) A wind up surely? OK, I will bite - how did you cut through galvanised steel joist hangers :?:

2.5m is a fair height - I would suggest getting an Engineer to have a look as there are more ecconomical ways to built retaining walls at that height (cavity filled) than mass brick. Also, reason for collapse needs to be determined........

Depending on span / direction and thickness of the existing joists it may also be possible to support the upper part of the chimney with a steel beam arrangement.

It may be small, but it is still a room! Ask the advice of an estate agent before you go ahead - they will know if the modifications will make a big difference to the maximum price you can get in your area.

Full depth bracing at third points between each joist will help reduce the deflection, but (as posted above) I would suggest that your joists are maxed out :shock:

I would imagine that a precolation test on clay would take a hell of a long time! Never carried out a test other than on sand (which took several hours to drain). I would image that the results will show that your soil is not suitable for a soakaway, or you will need a pretty big one :lol:

Normally the concrete goes straight to undistrubed ground to minimise the risk of settlement. The only time I have seen anything go in before was in the form of a blinding layer (weak concrete) to create a firm, level surface for fixing reinforcement steel. I would be surprised if your BCO...

There are plenty of specialist contractors around that will do this type of work with ease - probably safer (and cheaper) than hiring the equipment and undertaking the work.

Lift a floor board above and have a look to see if the joist rest on the wall.