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You will need to get it fixed when the chance arises. What you have there is a 1/2 inch tap connector inside that there should be a fibrewasher, is there 1 there ?. If not simply purchase one and put it in. If there is 1 already there check to see if its split or damaged, either way replace it...

As gas4you suggests get them done asap. In terms of price i would hate to hazard a guess but its a job that should not be too difficult because the pipework is already in place and just needs connecting.

edited.

I have been asked to replace a toilet in a friends house, went to see the job today and the toilet is bedded on a cement base. Now i think the only option is to smash the toilet out, but i was thinking should i rebed it on a cement base or what i want to do is remove the cement base, screw it to...

I really suggest you get Plumbing NVQ and Technical Certificate Lvl 2 book printed by Heinemann. A must have for the aspiring plumber out there.

1. 1.5 m 2. 0.9m 3.0 think its 5.0mins 4.0 38mm

Just make sure you deburr the end of the copper pipe and there are no rough sharp edges. Failure to do this could result in slicing thorugh the o ring inside the fitting.

Well, I went and sat the relative easy examinations on Friday. About 20 or so people there (2 old gits there and thats incl myself). So just waiting to hear by letter if i have passed the exams. Though because of my age there are only a few places available, so will just have to wait and see...

hehe such negative comments so far :lol:

I have some exams tomorrow with JTL with a view on getting on their Advanced Apprenticeship. Does anyone have any good or bad experiances with this company.? Am i wasting my time going down this route?. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanx Paul.

Red and round sounds more like a gate valve to me tbh. They do have a tendancy to sheer off if turned to hard and are fairly unused.

I was also contemplating moving the copper pipework. As the bath as centre mounted taps i was going to take the copper of the wall, down the side of the bath along the length. T off the hot and cold towards the centre of the bath and connect using900mm flexi. This would at least give me a little...

I am currently in the process of renewing my brothers bathroom. Upon taking the bath out i have found out that the basin and bath waste both goto drain of the same waste pipe ( bathroom is on groundfloor). The basin runs along the wall in 32mm where it then T's into the 40mm waste from the bath...

Waymeski, i have nearly completed my Tech Cert Lvl2 in Plumbing which is a 2year course. From what i understand from September they are going to be offering this course on a full time basis (4 1/2 days week) for 1 year. It will be tough to complete in 1yr but its possible ( i only started myself...

Got my electrical exam on Tuesday, last one before my Gola and i am dreading it tbh. With level 2 nearly complete (bathroom installation left) i have been selected to be put on the level 3 course this September providing i can pass this exam Tuesday plus the Gola. So any advice on the...

I beleive to work out the correct depth and notching distances is something like this. Depth of notch is Height of joist/8 i.e 200m/8 = 25mm depth Minimum Distance from wall is 0.07x span (length of joist)/ 100 = 7x2500mm/100 = 175mm Maximum from wall is span/4= 2500/4 =625mm. So...

Balancing the CH system should be a reasonably straightforward procedure ( but not always the case ). With regards your heating circuit, we shall say you have 6 rads for example. Working from the rad closest to the boiler you crack open the Lockshield a quarter turn, 2nd rad slightly more etc...

Boiler off.

TBH m8 i would not consider doing the bath, its awkward enough as it is under there. To determine the length of pipe to remove is simple. Remove the two compression nuts on the iso valve. Once removed you will see a " shoulder" where the pipe eventually sits. Measure from that "shoulder" to the...

Well slap me with a wet fish and call me Barbara !. :lol: