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i've not actually rendered over breeze block so it’s an interesting thought (I know mortar for blockwork is much looser than for brick). all my jobs are on brickwork (damp proofing). i don't wet brickwork 1st so would say same for breezeblock. I render at 3:1 plastering sand: cement 1st coat...

the person who raised this post might advise http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=131992

i've not done this exact job so no expert. i have block paved upto tarmac though. tarmac is very soft (relatively) and i feel it would be best to take it up and pour the concrete onto hardcore. u might need some turned on edge flags or edging bricks to sit between the concrete and tarmac...

this is not an easy one and probably why so many disasters happen. i guess the work must be with building control and u could ring them to get their input (or in the 1st instance suggest to the builder this approach if he's not for going along with the revised approach). alternatively a...

where are they - high up, low down or various u need to find the cause. initial feeling is condensation (black mould is typical give away) but given door is tight fit then maybe not. if all the mould is low down would again point to condensation. if it's high up or in various places it...

nothing to be concerned about (such things happen and a lot in building work) would ring building control and i would try to book a time when u can go in and go through things with them – ideally the inspector allocated to the work (unless u get confidence from the phone call)

most spacers and such like come in separate boxes integrated units sit in their own base units. i think best back to the store to get it sorted.

if it's not an open fire then i see no probs. if it's an open fire then i believe it’s a no no (only fire brick is acceptable) i don't know of a special fire rated plaster board. i would use std plasterboard and skim plaster.

recipe for disaster for me. put the wine glass down and start thinking what happens after the yrs salary's gone. get what u're going to do for a living 1st. then think of a location and roof.

understand. the problem with sanding is that most areas can be reached fine but u end up with quite a few areas that are difficult to access and hand sanding becomes the only option. if these few areas are not done right though they tend to stick out in the finished job. i use a palm...

any trained bricky will be able to do the pointing no trouble. all i'm saying is beware - your brick (from the photo's it looks the same as mine which has a rough surface) is not an easy brick to point without getting mortar all over the bricks. ask all your friends and neighbours for a word...

this question has a very large spectrum of answers. i guess u will post specifics later so i'll aim general. i've never built a house so take my tips on that basis. 1) get a book out the library called house builders bible by mark brinkley 2) draw out the floor plans free hand yourselves...

i would try to set the ply out so that it's fixed around the fireplace enough that it does not need fixing directly over the fireplace area. If not then for me its wall plug into the fireplace area (concrete/screed) as opposed to adhesive possibly would put some laminate insulation or the...

they generally have an "AC" rating or a life in years specified. AC3 is what i always think of as pretty good stuff, "Heavy domestic & moderate commercial" AC5 is heavy commercial the v groove laminate really does look the business i must admit i don't really take much notice of the...

refinishing staircases is my worst nightmare. the options are: 1) paint spindles white and ideally keep rail varnished 2) strip out and put in new 3) refinish it in stain/varnish No 2 & 3 are certainly too much like hard work and should be reserved for when its going to make a real...

i feel it's near on impossible to cut laminate without getting chips. generally however i find that most cuts are covered up by the skirtings and door thresholds so it doesn’t matter that much. i use a circular saw with the planks upside down for most cuts. if it's an area that going...

i think u're going to struggle on this. i like the tile effect laminate in both bathrooms and kitchens. it has a sort of rough surface (BandQ have it) which helps on the slipping front. with loose carpeting (rugs) it seems to work ok. the trouble is with water most surfaces are not going...

i think it's the term sub floor that might be foxing people. there are quite a few posts on marine ply if u search on it. it is the top notch product for this type of application. i've not used it so i'm not much help. i guess fixing wood be by screw and sealing by waterproof glue ie...

i would ring your local building control to make sure. i think it will be ok. i say this on the basis of what's used for retrofit cavity wall insulation which i've been reading up on. the suppliers use Polystyrene bonded beads, Glass wool and Rockwool. Knauf is a supplier (spec supafill).

i always work down ie wall cabinets 1st then the floor bases. leave all the doors off till the end so they can't get damaged.