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NO. i've pointed on this type of brick (it's got a rough surface) and it's the worst i've come across. u need someone who's competent (ie does pointing for a living) and very careful otherwise it will look a real mess.

Skytalkz, thanks for clearing up the lime mortar - it's been bugging me for a while. your credentials are now almost off scale with a doctorate in chemistry whilst practising law and self building as a hobby. :D

u ideally need to establish if the concrete floor is damp. tape a piece of plastic on top of it and leave for 24hrs. if there is moisture then u ideally need to put a dpm sheet down to protect the laminate. for the underlay use the 4mm thk "wood" board type. this is strictly for floor boards...

the only way i level concrete floors is using sand & cement screed. the trouble is i don't like to go much above 1". so i would try to level out to within 1" with concrete then top with screed. i'm not sure what u would bed the flooring on but if they are tiles or flags then the screed...

Have added my 2p I think penetrating for the mould caused by the double glazing installation I exclude condensation (on the basis that its only in the bay and was never there before). Ventilation is key to eliminating condensation and could be down to the window change but I feel the...

definitely no to buying a rabbit hutch on a farm ie new build (rooms too small, neighbours too close). definitely no to build your own - good plots difficult to find and always expensive as a result. solution find an existing house that no one wants which u can nock about into something...

the blinds that i tensd to buy have the slats horizontal can be cut down to length. the slats are plastic and by clamping a few together can be cut with a jig saw. u can't get a really straight cut line unless u mark and cut each individual blind. the bottom bar is aluminium and has plastic...

thanks woody, i can see this working. found a pic of the long speedy hanger via google and sliding under ea joist will be no prob. feel i'm now sorted – just the head ht in the loft to check for getting the 3.7m binders in. for info the work is under building notice and structural...

thanks and1c the emphasis is truly on "the gist" - i was hoping for a simple english description of how it would be done by the best.

I need to take out a 1st floor brick wall which provides support to the ceiling joists. I would prefer to put the replacement structural support in the loft space. I am thinking of timber binders in joist hangers off the party walls (terraced house) with timber hangers to each ceiling joist...

i am not sure on this one but add what i know. if i am not sure about a surface i will try a small amount of the levelling compound first and see how it goes (leave it 24 hrs and see how easy it is to get off). i would take the ceramic tiles up. an alternative would be to score them with...

not that much help on the routing but add my experience which might be of help. the bco are very interested in the soil pipe route - they will want falls and rodding access. don't overlook it's importance (difficulty) in resolving its route - it's generally a big headache on extn work as...

i like to trap the damp at the surface that it's coming off. i also find chipboard (even the flooring grade) susceptible to any dampness. whilst i'm sure the dpm sheet and chipboard will work, i'm just suggesting giving a thought to alternatives that are more akin to the environment you've...

i don't like wood on solid floors (only with void/ventilation underneath) due to durability. i would fill the big holes with mortar (5:1 grit sand:cement) followed by a self leveller/liquid dpm. i don't think there is a way of getting a plastic dpm sheet to work with the depth.

have not used real wood but i do use std laminate. i seal all the edges with a thin bead of pva glue as i place each plank. i also caulk around all the edges of the room and any pipes etc passing through. i don’t think wax would work as it will dry out after being pushed into the joints...

damp cloth and soap has got to be worth a try. don't know of a chemical that will remove pva gently. only suggestion would be to use a razor blade scraper - the type used for removing paint off glass. the blade is surrounded by plastic and prevents u digging in

it's often quite a dilemma. rule is normally dirty trades first (sort of anything cement based) then decorate, then soft furnishings carpet etc. decorate is start at highest point and work down on the basis of paint and gravity. i think i would go for: floor (presume levelling), banister...

No. u need to stop the damp at the floor level before putting down any soft furnishings ie laminate, underlay, carpet etc. otherwise the niff will be back. bitumen is a good damp proofing material. as long as it's not cracked then i'm now not sure what would be causing the niff. i feel...

u will need to use at least 1" inch of screed. you can't get a good flat level surface with concrete (not without specialist tools) or control the height that well. the latex is normally laid to 5mm and although more than 1 layer can be applied it is expensive to apply more than 1 coat...

a posh carpet to carpet door strip gripper ehh. glad your ok now anyhow. :D