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I hope this helps. This was the layout of the system in my previous house (not in the UK) which I would like to duplicate here.

I plan to use an oversized boiler that directly heats the store water. This way I can keep the store temperature low (60C), and still have lots of hot water as the boiler will be able to replace the heat as it is used. So what I am looking for is a small store (300l or less) with a large coil...

Those look to be tank-in-tank, I need one with a large coil.

I am installing brand new cast iron decorative radiators, and would rather not have the rads and the boiler exposed to the corrosive effects of a vented system. Even with inhibitor, a vented system constantly lets in oxygen. Unvented systems are superior in this regard, which is why you can use...

That is great, thanks. My guess was Poland as well, they are pretty good at making heavy steel stuff. It is a bit of a shame to find what looks like a nice product, but not from a reliable supplier. I would also prefer to buy something made in the UK if possible, and I can't help but wonder if...

The two problems I found with most stores on the UK market, including Newark are: 1) Most are designed for vented use. 2) The hot water coils are undersized, so they need to be run at a high temperature The one I linked to above is designed for unvented use (up to 3 bar), as it is made of mild...

Does anyone have experience with this company: https://thermal-store.co.uk/thermal-store-price-lmt.php I am looking at their LMT 300 litre store with a DN32 hot water coil that has a 6.3 square meter surface area. I can't find any information about the company or where the tanks are made. They...

Looks kinda pricey for a one-off job, but if I used a sleeve like that I could use plain steel threaded rod. Do you know if that sleeve can be removed afterwards?

Although in Canada people tend to call any concrete wall buried half in the ground a grade beam, technically the name really applies to a steel reinforced structural beam that can span the distance between piers or something like that. In my case it will be supported by a footing all along...

Sorry, I thought you meant the forms. The workshop will be of wood construction, rendered with a clay tile roof to match the house. The idea is to get it 30cm or so off the ground so that it doesn't rot. You are right, it is probably overkill, but I have no experience with block, and...

If you have ever seen forms put up with snap ties and whaler bar, it is hard to imagine a quicker way to do it. Plus it is mostly just plywood, and you do not need so much additional bracing, just enough to keep the forms in place. Without any anchors through the wall, there is a lot of outward...

Those ties are an idea, cheap and won't rust. Probably strong enough if you use enough of them.

It is for a short concrete wall that will be the foundation for the workshop. The snap ties break off just below the surface, and the holes are normally just filled, but you can also get stainless ones.

A grade beam is a small concrete wall. In my case it will be 60cm high 25cm thick, with about half under ground (grade), sitting on a footing. Not sure what they are called here. Here is a pic of how the snap ties are placed.

New to the UK, and I am pouring a grade beam for a workshop that I am building. In Canada (the land of basements), concrete forms are made of 3/4 plywood held together with snap ties, that have slots in them that you slide flat metal bars (waler bars) that hold the forms at a fixed distance...

Are you sure you are talking about the same tiles? These ones are 90 years old, and aside from a little staining and moss, they look as good as new. No pitting, no spalling, no shaling, etc. It is too bad they did not fasten them down. They have a single hole on the hook where they rest on the...

Depends where they are. Next fool that gets talked into re-doing their 30s roof on my block and I'll be over there with a wheelbarrow. I'll even take them off myself, as I guess for most in the trade it is not worth the time to do it without breaking them.

As I mentioned above, RBS in Norwich sells them, and that is what they charge, 65p. I didn't ask about bulk discounts. If you have such tiles for 10p, just let me know, I'll take 200 square meters worth off your hands if they are in good shape. I doubt any modern tiles will outlast these.

Resale value appears to be 65p per tile. They are not nailed down anywhere, just cemented on the sides and ridge.

The tiles on my roof are around 90 years old and still in very good shape, except for the few the wind blew off. The crappy modern concrete ones that they put on our garage, not so much. If these tiles are so readily available, why would anyone replace their roof? instead of just repairing...