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Hi There I am about to remove an old outside toilet (1950s guess) and I can see a suggestion from a previous poster that I can use a drain plug to seal it off. Question: Do I just put cement over the plug afterwards or is there a better way of hiding it? Many thanks

Great thanks

Btw, is it possible to cover the lean to electrics with something temporarily? I would really love to get rid of the structure asap as it looks rather hideous.

We had the electrics part rewired a few years ago. They didn't touch the lean to part though. I just tried switching off the RCD on the fuse box which says 'ground floor lights' and it seems the lean to lights are connected to the 'ground floor lights' circuit. Think the previous owner wired it...

Thanks. I have very little knowledge of electricity so was thinking of getting an electrician in but like to have a rough idea what's needed before getting someone in. There's also a lamp on the wall, could that be changed to an outdoor type fitting or wouldn't that work?

Hi there I am about to tear down a tiny wooden lean to which is very old and looks like a real bodge job. The electric socket and light fitting on house walls are both modern but I was wondering what to do with them once lean to has been knocked down as they will be exposed to rain. Does...

Thanks. You may be right. I guess a mouse has many options when it comes to entering a house.

Hi There A little mouse made its way into our bedroom yesterday and I was wondering if it could have come in through the victorian chimney. What I find strange is that the chimney has a metal terminal type chimney pot like the one below and it also has air bricks just below the metal chimney...

No I put spray adhesive down. Think I may leave the welding for this time. It's a small area in a small kitchen.

Thanks. It was actually exceptionally hard work. Luckily it's only a small area of around 20 cm which can be seen but won't be walked on and as I have no idea how to heat weld a floor maybe best to cover it with a mat or something. Is using silicone a bad idea?

The manufacturer said a double cut was the way to go.

Hi There I've laid a commercial grade vinyl floor in our kitchen which looks great. As the vinyl is only 2 meter wide I had to create a seam in the corner which was done with great difficulty. It looks o.k but you can see a tiny gap/line here and there. Question: would it be acceptable to use...

That's good news. Makes me feel like less of an amateur.:)

Concave. I used hooked blades elsewhere. Today I did a cut just simply cutting a straight line and putting the two pieces together. Looked a whole lot better but you can still see the line slightly. They say it's possible to make the seam almost invisible but find it hard to see how that's...

Hi There I've been laying industrial grade padded sheet vinyl on our kitchen floor which looks great. With the help of a template I was able to do most of it but have now hit a snag. The manufacturer said I needed to use a concave blade for the double cut where the seam is to avoid buckling. I...

Thanks for info. The bay doesn't have a reduced height ceiling but there's an air vent under the floorboards which may also contribute to the problem. Plus there's very little sunlight coming in. Even in summer it's a cool room. Was thinking of putting the radiator up myself and get a plumber...

Thanks. I was thinking of keeping the one by the wall and then put another 30 cm double convector as you mentioned.

That theory would be mine:). I am by no means an expert but did some rough calculations based on what I read. There's obviously an air vent under the floor by the bay window which probably contributes to the issue

Hi There We currently have one radiator in our small Victorian front living room. Room dimensions: 3.81 cm x 3.39 cm. The previous owner had a new radiator installed which is positioned on the back wall. The radiator should in theory be adequate for the room but heat doesn't seem to spread and...

Good idea. I was thinking of buying either grade 11 or 13 hinges.