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Hi there I am replacing original wood floorboards in our Victorian house with new pine. Instructions recommends 12 mm expansion gap. There's a slap of old concrete around the fireplace. Do I need an expansion gap there? If yes, any thoughts on how I can fill the expansion gap without it looking...

O.k thanks. Why is that btw?

Great, thanks

I've heard of spax. Any particular ones you can recommend?

Hi there Just wondered if anyone can recommend some quality screws for some old floorboards, screwed to joists, sanded and on display. I am looking for screws that reduce creaking with a gold finish. I've tried floor Tite. They were good with no creaking but the head gets damaged easily...

I live in a small 2 up 2 down type victorian house with suspended timber floor. The house has adequate air bricks except for the corridor where there's none. It's completely bone dry in the void. My estimate is the nearest air brick is 2.5 meters to the right in the next room (There's a wall...

Next week I'll finally start working on strengthening our floor joists suspended timber floor. I have a few questions though and would be grateful for some input: 2) One particular joist is a little spongy at the bottom (about 2 cm). I think this was caused many years ago. Would it be o.k to...

The existing joists are actually (100 x 50). The joists I was thinking of buying are (97 x 47), so a few millimeters short. Standard measurements it seems. Was thinking of using wood shims. How you describe sistering is how I was thinking about going about it. The joists in the picture are...

I about to order some 100 x 47 timber for sistering joists on suspended floor. The floor joists in one room are generally in good condition but as you can see from the picture they are made of two pieces of timber, joined in the middle. Because the wall plate is slightly bend some of the...

Looks good. I noticed it has 2 closed boss sockets. Presumably you can cut one of them open to fit second waste pipe, is that right? Then have storm water and washing machine at the top.

My estimate is the largest pipe is no more than 40 mm so an angle grinder may work.

I actually think it's steel. Very old pipes, rusty.

Great thanks. Will give it a go

I bought a multi tool recently which has been great on wood. Last weekend I cut an old gas pipe under the floor board. It took forever and the teeth on the blade were beginning to look a bit flat at the end. There are a few more pipes to cut and was wondering what my best option would be: 1)...

Thanks, that makes sense. As it's currently a combined gully, I was thinking of connecting 2 floplast gullys to each other and have washing machine/gutter in one and two sink water pipes in the other. Does that sound workable? Strange how few pictures I've been able to find online of homeowners...

O.k thanks. So basically dig out and replace parts that are cracked? Apart from that, is the construction/design of the gully o.k?

We have slugs in our kitchen and I noticed slightly damp/moist earth under the suspended floorboards. I am trying to get to the root cause and was wondering our gully outside could be the problem. As you can see from the picture it's cracked here and there. Any suggestions how to fix these...

Thank you. Appreciate it.

Thanks for that. I should mention the part the has rot is bridging 2 sleeper walls with nothing underneath (except gas mains pipe). Could I splice in a new section using a joist plate or is there a better alternative?

Hi there Was wondering if anyone could advice me. We live in a 1900 victorian house. The floor joists rest on brick sleeper walls. The sleeper walls have a timber bearer on top (if that makes sense). The problem I have is that the timber bearer (which the joist rest on) is somewhat rotten in...