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Are you sure it's a 6" clay and not a 4"? Is there no other full chamber that you have access to the open end? If not then you would need to cut that access section out, fit the valve in the upstream end and then remake with plastic and/or fernco's. The covers never seem to last, only ever...

Usually not to the point whereby the rad won't flow, some of the tubular designer rads have the tube slightly above the top and bottom horizontals and they can sometimes catch a little air right at the top but that would usually dissipate over time. The difficulty is with gravity fed open vent...

Probably the reason your system is working OK is that it's all 8/10mm and there are only 7 rads. 10mm pipe can supply anything up to ~ 2.5Kw2 where the system is compact, relatively well balanced, pump is strong, the overall run sizes aren't that large. The trouble starts, with microbore...

Difficult fitting a bath to a wall that already tiled. The proper fitting of a bath would be, level batons on the wall, especially if it's acrylic, seal the bath to the batons and the wall and seal all around the top edge, fill bath a leave overnight then tile down to the bath and then seal...

Oh dear, sorry but he's not a proper plumber IMO. Any self respecting, trained plumber that had access like that and a stop tap at the bottom, if it works properly, could have easily fitted a nice shiny piece of copper, bent properly to the wall if needed, clipped the pipe where it needed to be...

Hmmm - that's not right - good quality (CV) vise grips will easily grip that and take that out, as they are only brass. In all my years I've never had a case where grips wouldn't get a tail out like that, you need to get the grips locked on tight enough and as suggested, looking straight on to...

That's a modern standard tail - the rad HEX key will only fit the old standard union type tails, i.e - the one on the left in the pic below Pair of vise grips on the chewed hex will get that out. Threads will be ok as they're what's actually in the rad tapping.

How far away is the pipe stat sensor from the boiler and is the sensor properly bonded to the pipe with thermal paste? Have you cross checked them with say an infra red thermometer, with a bit of black tape around the pipes?

That's 2 different functions. The system water (CH) control on the boiler will still control the actual system water temp out to the rads. The new stat will keep the demand for heating going (boiler running the CH) until the room with the stat in it reaches the set temp and then it'll shut the...

No reason why not. Just keep the loops sealed so there's no ingress of anything until they are needed and then connect up, flush and commission.

I think everyone needs more fibre in their diet :unsure: :LOL:

If it's a concealed LL cistern then fit a Thomas Dudley and throw away the 6L box ;)

+1 - the standard for a combined feed and vent would be 22mm all the way. Also, they aren't really a standard as they can be a bugger to fill and can be prone to airlocks if not done slowly, although, as suggested though if it's worked ok up till now. Combined feed and vents were usually used...

Oh dear - as suggested - if you have set it up so it uses a fixing kit, then it needs to be bang on 150mm and if there's absolutely no play in the pipes, then unfortunately you'll need to get in there. Could only be used if the op had used wall plate connectors or 1/2"x15mm female compression...

There shouldn't be any difference TBH - all 110mm PVC-u pipe would normally be able to fit either push fit or solvent weld couplings - 110mm is 110mm OD regardless of the connection type, if you see what I mean. As I say though, for some odd reason some makers don't seem to want to stick to the...

Most soil pipe these days is PVC-U, even the single (ring) socket ended pipe and as long as it is PVC-U then it can be glued. Most cements will also solvent weld ABS and PVC

The reason I ask is the TS have a make of plastic called Aquaflow and it seems to be a different size to the other manufacturers. Every other maker is just about interchangeable - as they should be given the nominal BS sizes of the pipe and fittings should be just about the same same. Real...

Cut it further back where it may be out of sight then use a compression fitting to remake once soldered.

Threads with PTFE tape don't need to go fully into the stop to be watertight but you do want it relatively tight otherwise all it will do is loosen when a hose is attached to it and it's pulled around. Buy a roll of GAS PTFE tape, it's thicker - 7 wraps will do