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I’d put it on top of only to save the dust and cost of removal. Just add a few mechanical fixings (screws)

I honestly would say set them into the ground instead. If you use a dry mix, you can mess about with them as long as you like, get some temporary timbers in, or wedge with bits of brick or whatever you like, get them spot on. then tip a bucket of water into it once done and leave it overnight...

Screeding means moving a straight edge in a sawing and tamping motion, along 2 parallel timbers set at the right height. Slope isn’t going to be an issue unless you mix it incredibly wet and it’s only a tiny fall. So like I say, I’d first set your 2 screed “rails” (timbers) at exactly the right...

Don’t really get the bolt down fence either, surely you can just dig down and set them properly, particularly if you’re pouring concrete anyway, seems a no brainer. Can’t you screed the concrete on the shorter span, working off the timber on the right to another timber you set on the left at...

Added to support the purlin mid-span, transferring load to a wall below. I’ve had a SE make an informal recommendation for me to do similar in the past, there seems to be a view that the original design is under-specced in some cases. Presumably made worse by certain heavier roof tiles.

Oh crikey. Seriously, the only thing you need to know is a slightly longer screw will, honestly, I promise, work.

Try firing a screw into one.

Coroline black corrugated sheets can look decent fitted vertically. And dead cheap.

I’d knock it back with a wood chisel, if it’s quite bad you’ll risk the board breaking/bulging at that point. Not the end of the world tho either way. Or if you’re on about the metal hanger itself, not much you can do other than a couple of whacks with lump hammer to flatten it up a bit

Ceiling boarding long edge doesn’t have to land on a joist. But yeah, 1220 plus strip gives more supported edges than 2 other random sized pieces.

Is it a Belfast sat on a unit? If so, unit could be lowered and take sink down with it, and out. Not particularly easy but none of the options are…

You’re just talking about bringing the main into the house at the front rather than the back, to reduce the amount of trenching? That’s fine. Copper would need lagging in garage. It’s meant to be ducted and insulated as it comes in tho, then a stopcock and drain off pretty close to that point.

If we’re talking purely skimming, I’d just do one side of it, and other side after, so you’re skimming to a dry edge and get it bang on. Keep the edge really clean and wet when you’re doing the second side. Or, fit a stop bead. You won’t struggle to get it straight, it’s always dead rigid on...

That looks like a 40mm waste pipe, at least 10mm below the top, which is way over what you’re theoretically meant to take out, and probably would be even if it was a 32mm pipe. Looks like at least an 8” joist. See it done all the time tho. Guess it depends on whether it was his call or he was...

Ok with the right fixings… 50kg TV?!

50mm screws. That’s the whole point of battening it, they take the load. Although given they’re celcon blocks, a 70mm or whatever screw would just fire straight into it so not an issue either.

Just speak to local installers, vast majority of the time it wouldn’t be needed

Cheers all, will redo it.

Yeah, exactly. Better explanation than I gave. Just checking there isn’t anything wrong with it even if it’s a bit unnecessary.

Cheers. Yeah, it has a timer. As far as I can see, this meets the requirements. Just never seems to be done like that that I’ve seen.