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I’ve never found any reference to this way of wiring a fan isolator and timer fan (no lights involved, just a switch to control the fan). I can’t see anything fundamentally wrong with it, but please correct me if that’s not the case. Connected to fused 5a feed. All Earths connected where...

I doubt the clips alone are causing that? Is it not just a lot of run off from the dormer side/upper roof and the pitch being low causing it to overspill the verge?

yeah, it’s solid 6mm cement board. No washers. All good.

Deffo seems to be adhesive, and no washers

Local grab hire/aggregate places may do a swap of taking away existing and bringing new topsoil. Ground workers for if stuff needs moving around/levelling etc. Theyre also likely to have contacts for the grab.

Cheers all. 6mm notched trowel ok for the addy onto the ply, or skim it thin?

The headlap on those tiles looks absolutely tiny if I’m seeing the pic right

Nice one, ta.

I’ve laid a 18mm wbp ply bathroom floor with all board edges meeting on joists. Before tiling I’m going to lay 6mm cement board glued and screwed down to the ply. Am I right in thinking, 1) the backer boards edges don’t need to meet on a joist, and the screw length only needs to be enough to hit...

It wouldn’t be my first choice either, but some trays MI’s specify it.

I think most people use rapid set. Or silicone, or even exp foam. I’ve always used mortar, but will probably go rapid set on the next one.

Cool, I’m very tempted to do this then: Offer tray up, check it’ll sit level on some rapidset or silicone or whatever the instructions say Tank walls, all the way down to floor, only use tape on wall corner When tanking dry, thick beads of stixall on walls and tray pushed tight to them and...

I’m going on the assumption that the solid silicone layer between tray side and wall is permanent and impermeable. I can’t recall ever seeing silicone under compression disintegrate much, but yeah if it did it’d be an issue.

Yeah, that’s what I’ve always done. I’m always keen to make life easier though, and am tempted by @noseall method above. Saves the faff of masking the tray etc.

Spot on, cheers. I’m also thinking of tanking the walls first then putting the tray in and siliconing it to the tanked wall. This seems easier than masking it off like I’ve done in the past.

I’ve gotta do one soon, and I reckon I’ll do it this way rather than how I’ve always done it (masked tray and tanked a few mm onto it). Is this a fairly common thing? Never seen anyone do it but it makes sense to me and can’t see any downsides, and it’s easier

I’m fitting a concealed shower and can’t work out how this outlet will work with the tanking. I’ve done this a fair bit with bar type shower mixers, and I’m used to sealing the tanking around the 2x 15mm pipes sticking out the wall with bar mixers, but for this one it looks like there’s just...

I know hammered in noggins are apparently a no no nowadays, but can’t quite work out why, if they’re on the “protected” side of the fire protection? Something to do with steel twisting and dislodging them?

Did think (and hope!) that but same result from the taps

Worcester greenstar 30i combi, 9 years old. A year ago hot water started going on a 1 minute ish cycle hot-lukewarm. Got a GSE out and plate heat exchanger replaced. All good, until now (a year ish later) when it happened again, totally noticeably for a day or two. Got another GSE booked in for...