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No in fact I can just see them behind the board, looks like they are still live! Maybe they pulled new cable through when they rewired in the (my guess) 1970's.

One is 20mm, the other two are 12mm and one has a join, it is just slipped in. They are behind the plaster to not that easy to follow. I cannot see any sign of them in the understairs cupboard or in the bedroom above.

@johnny2007 Cut it with a grinder and rip out?

I have stripped the plaster off a 1930's London house and found these, my guess is old electrical cables. Please can someone confirm? I want to rip them out really I am guessing it would be safe to do so?

Do you suggest draining the system and changing the valve?

Spot on. Now I just need to get it moving. thanks

So I am going to take this rad off the wall but it has a locksheild of a style I have not seen before. The screw is for the plastic top cover. Then there is a cog, if you will, which I am guessing turns off the water. Has anyone worked with these before? What tool do I need to shut off the...

Well it does not have buzzer continuity setting but it does have Ohms.

@Sparky3. 32A MCB. Sadly by multimixer does not offer a continuity option. Will have to invest in a new one for that task.

@Harry Bloomfield I have a socket tester which I will use.

Yes its a ring, I have had up a number of floorboards and have followed the cables between the sockets. I was wrong to assume it was 4mm T&E.

Thanks for the feedback everyone, interesting stuff. So it sounds like my plan still stands to extend the ring using 2.5mm T&E in the bedroom. The Wago box and connector do fit the old cable as I have used them to make safe the ring in the bedroom while I plaster the wall.

Thanks for your reply Jurassic. Good to know thanks. So is that is a good match to modern 2.5mm solid core T&E??

My house seems to have a mix of 4mm cable for the ring mains. It is a 1930's house but I am thinking the electrics are maybe 1970's/80's? Now last week I switch a single to double socket downstairs and the T&E looked like (4mm?) Copper Clad (I am no expert but it was stranded and silver...

freddiemercurystwin - thanks good to know NHBC level tolerance for floors is 3mm/m for up to 6m span. tony1851 - today it is the chimney but who knows in years to come we might want to convert the loft adding more weight. So would prefer it was done correctly now. kp00110 - I was sure gallows...

Thanks both. Well I only used a 1m level and put a small 2mm wedge under it and that made it level. I assumed that 2mm per meter over the 5m span. I will email the engineer and see if he would be happy with the 80mm bearings.

We are in the process of having the chimney removed. So the builders have just put in two RSJs (152x152x23-5350mm). They sit on engineering bricks and steel plates at both ends. One end was chamfered to fit the roofline. The RSJs sit on 10mm steel plates at the roof side and 15mm plates at the...

Yes the universal backplate sounds like a good idea but its still not fully 'universal' from what you are saying. Well its all done, is working as it should. Think it took me longer to program it than to do the wiring :) One thing with this model is that the LCD backlight is on all the time...

RandomGrinch, top notch! yes the house needs a lot of updating but that will be done when the new boiler goes in. So the blue wire going into NO (3) currently should have a brown sleeve I take it? So best to switch from flex cable to T&E when rewiring? So yes that makes sense Hot water off...

I am looking to swap out an old ST699 Honeywell programmer for Drayton LP522. Now I am confident with most electrics but have not done a boiler programmer before. I am attaching some images of new and old for general consumption. Now to the wiring... Here is the current setup. With 5 wires...