Search results

Volunteered to fit my daughters bathroom as she doesn't have the money to pay a tradesman and as I had done similar quite a few times my name was in the frame! I have come up against something a bit confusing and I'd be grateful for some opinions please. On removing the wet wall and (apart from...

Thanks for that. Yes I realised I only needed to run 3 core T&E to the first detector after I'd done it, I can still change it as the first detector is easy to access. So directly into the lighting mcb it is. Thanks for replying.

Well I'm certainly not better than you but I take from all that, I won't be fitting a new mcb and so avoid the 'new circuit' malarkey. Thanks for replying

I know this has been done to death but I have read so much conflicting info that I just have to ask, so I apologise for that. I have fitted 3 smoke detectors and one heat detector which I have interlinked and run the cable (1.5mm 3 core and interlink) to the consumer unit ready for connection...

Thank you for your reply. One last question; is there an acceptable outside temperature that is generally acceptable to lay these type of shingles, at the moment we are about 14 - 16 degrees c. I may just try to see if I can get a roofer anyway as it's a lot of money to waste if I screw this up!

No I won't be using a torch or heat gun on the underlay, just nailed down. My query is really, would a 'heat gun' help with the bitumen shingles after they are nailed; what stops the wind getting under them and ripping them off before the heat of the currently non existent sun sticks them down?

Had a read through most of the forum and I'm still left with a question please. Log cabin with roof 12.8 deg pitch & 19mm tongue and groove roof boards. I have a bitumen underlay to go down onto the boards and my question is with regard to laying the hexagonal bitumen shingle tiles in not so...

That makes sense thanks, I'll stick with dpc under the floor bearers then. This whole condensation/moisture thing is doing my head in, the more I read the more confused I get!

Thanks for your reply. I have considered that also; my thinking with regard to covering the whole concrete slab was to eliminate any moisture from the concrete from causing problems to the wooden flooring or dampness inside the building. I'm perhaps being a bit OTT and I should stop over...

I had a 4cm deep 7x4 metre concrete base laid to erect a log cabin and they laid damp membrane between the type one and concrete. The log cabin floor bearers go directly onto the concrete base to support the floor boards and I am wondering if there would be some benefit to covering the whole top...

Bloody hell, that was easy. Thank you for that.

I have some posts with steel supports going into the ground where I assume they have been concreted in. I've searched the web but as I don't know the name for them, I'm hoping someone might be able to tell me what they are called please? Planning a couple of garden jobs where these or something...

Thanks for that Bernard. Yes the new 2g switch did have each switch the same way up but I ensured that I took account of that by connecting the cables to the identically labelled terminals as the dimmer switch. When I get home later I'll remove the wall switch and double check and take a pic of...

Thanks. The side with the yellow cable controlled the ceiling light

I have searched previous posts and can't seem to find the answer so hopefully someone can enlighten me as to what might be the issue here. I have a 2g dimmer where one switch controlled a ceiling light and the other a pair of wall lights. I want rid of the dimmer so replaced it with a 2g 2way...

Tiling my kitchen so had to remove electric sockets and I have a quick question regarding my cooker connection unit on the wall. I noticed that the cooker connection unit is connected to the 20amp mcb in the consumer unit via an above unit double pole isolation switch. The cable is 4mm. What...

Yeah that's a good idea, I was getting the fuse box changed later anyway so maybe I'll get the kitchen circuit renewed at the same time. Out of interest, you say it's maybe not a good design, what would be a good design for kitchen power?

Thanks for that....I think :confused: I do have an ohms facility on a multi-function multimeter but I'm no expert on electrics so have never got into this. I don't bugger about with house electrics apart from replacing sockets, switches etc. I have no intention of messing with my kitchen...

I just wondered whether it was safe as I had gotten a bit confused with the various electrical posts on the forum, just got me wondering so wanted to check.