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ive been building an extension and have lots of old slabs, bricks and concrete blocks. I was planning on laying in down to form part of a sub base for a patio. People keep telling me il get voids etc if I use them ...... massive ball ache to clear as access limited. Surely if I lay it all...

Maybe I will just lay it all in flat. Compact it and use type 1 ? On top of it for about 50mm. Will that be doing the same job anyway?

I ain’t got time to smash half a Gardner’s worth of concrete with a sledge hammer

is there a domestic machine that crutches old concrete, bricks and paving slabs in to useable hardcore for a new patio?

I think it’s exatly that theory. If there is more grease then it will take longer to separate and therefore slow down flow and needing a bigger trap. Anyway, there is a Rational self cooking centre and a combi master. The spec says max flow rate 6.6 gpm on both so guess if sizing like that...

I went back today to have a other look. The waste in the floor runs across the kitchen. (7m) to a vented stack outside. So this should be ok? And I can just run the vent on the inlet a be spill level next to sink

Ian I was led to belive that size isn’t dependant in how often they are cleaned but the flow rate of the appliances, if the trap isn’t large enough then it could back up ‍♂️

Wjat are the regs on wastepipes connecting to Combinatikn oven appliances. I know because the discharge can be steam that it’s meant to run in copper or stainless steel, does this just apply to the pipe directly out of the appliance and in to the copper tundish.... then it can switch to plastic ?

Ian this will just be a manual grease trap. So as you say, a 2inch inlet ans outlet, with the additional vent requirements. I guess I just use the rubber coupling with jubilee clips. I’ve read that as it’s 4 appliances it will need a 100 litre which is 800 x 400 x 320. Does this seem overkill...

2 more than me I guess the worst that will happen is a callback regarding traps blowing etc. Then I could probably take an 1 1/2 Waste out the wall and vent up the side of the building. The allowance is within 6m Of a vented stack isn’t it?

Thanks for replying, I will have a tee with a rodding point somewhere in the installation. The install is under a double sink, so i won’t be able to get a vent above spill over level, just a above trap level. I’ve never fitted a flow control valve on a waste, will this come with the grease trap...

Hello all, I need to install a grease trap under a commercial sink in a school. Not really my area but needs to be done. There are 2 sinks and 2 ovens that have wastes coming off them with what I belive is a degreaser dispenser. My questions are, would I class each sink and oven as 1 appliance...

So from my back door to the the bi fold opening the screed guy said the build was 50mm out of level. He’s screeded it with a rise of 20mm but said rising 50mm would notice too much. It’s not dry enough to go a put a level on it yet. I will check it tomorrow. Will be a laminate I should imagine

My extension was supposedly out of level. 50mm over 7m so when the floor was screeding level it falls 30mm below the finished brick opening internally. Outside is 4 courses down as I need to build it up. What are my threshold options. The screed was meant to go to brick level but screeder...

At the moment my joists overhang by 25mm which would have been the return leg of the fascia. So if I screw 18mm ply to the joists I will then have an overhang of 43mm so if I use shiplap as in the photo what would I do with the 43mm underside?

7.5m long extension, fall has to go front to back. So firings were 200mm, 10 inch joists to match existing house because will be doing a second storey in the future. Warm deck with 100mm insulation. 18mm osb and 18mm top deck

I have a flat roof, the fascia boards will end up being 600mm plus the arris rail. Anyone have any other ideas other than fascia now that I can’t build up the outer skin. I have a bedroom over a car port with ship lap board(if that’s what it’s called) was wondering if anyone has ever done 4 or 5...

I’ve gone back to a warm roof

Right, so change of plan. I’m now having to go with a cold roof because by the time my firrings are cut to 1:40 over 7.4 metres already on top of a 10inch joist it’s just too high. Would end up being around 600mm fascia at its highest. What’s the requirements for a cold roof ventilation as I...

Not really finding anytime to crack on which is killing me as it’s decided to poor down most the time ☹️. I’ve noticed 2 joists have are split at the end half way through for about a half a metre. Can I just put a straight metal strap top to bottom so it don’t move or hammer long nails through...