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Hi all, does anyone know of span and load tables for steel L-section purlins? I'm considering replacing my roof covering and need to know whether the purlins could safely take the weight of the new covering. The purlins span 3300 mm between trusses at 1300 mm centres. They are 64 x 51 x...

I have one of these and what posters tend to overlook is the fact that the large air vent it requires lets an enormous amount of cold air into the room, which is both uncomfortable and a big waste of energy.

Hi, that's good to know. Unfortunately I don't know much about boiler reliability and expected life, I was just recommending doing the sums. I would be surprised though if it wasn't worthwhile doing though if the boiler is free!

Hi, sorry I did not realise the Green Deal did that! The first thing is to work out how much you'll save on your gas bills and then you'll be in a better position to decide whether a possibly less long-lived new boiler makes sense. For example if you use 10 000 kWh of gas per year at...

Just a quick comment but surely it isn't free - you have to pay it back with your energy bills plus 7% interest? Not saying it's necessarily a bad thing if you can't raise the money another way but I'd be wary that under the Green Deal you might be stuck with the type of installers that are...

I'm talking of them saying it's a good thing having a boiler setup that requires a 100 cm^3 hole letting a gale into the room, not that the vent isn't necessary for a non-room sealed boiler. I'm well aware that it's necessary as I don't want to wake up dead one morning ;-) I'm just saying...

None of our radiators are under windows. We have newish double glazed units. The walls are a mixture of original, rather poorly insulated system-built and others I have upgraded with internal insulation. I do not notice any draught from lack of radiators under windows. On the other hand our...

Traditionally radiators were put under windows to combat draughts, in the days of leaky, single glazed windows. However, this does increase heat loss and is energy inefficient. Also, they get in the way of curtains. I think modern and energy efficient practice is to install radiators on...

You're right about needing new controls. Originally there were no TRVs. I have replaced the oldest radiators which had no fins and a funny connection that had the inlet and outlet at the same point and fitted TRVs to all radiators except the one next to the thermostat. The thermostat is a...

It's a fully pumped system. The logical place for any replacement would be upstairs from and almost directly above the existing back boiler, next to the existing hot water cylinder (heat only) or in its place (combi) as that is where the pipework is and directly above the gas supply. There is a...

I was, and I would, but the air vent it needs being non-room sealed lets in a horrible draught in winter and makes the living room uncomfortable. Plus having a 100 cm^3 hole in the wall pretty much negates any draught proofing and insulation!

I wasn't asking for an exact cost, just if the one tends to be simpler and cheaper than the other in general, which doesn't seem an unreasonable question.

Can anyone tell me if it's significantly simpler/cheaper to install a heat-only boiler for an existing central heating and hot water system than a combi boiler? At the moment we have a Baxi Bermuda back boiler and 8 mm microbore central heating system with a vented cylinder. I'm thinking...

Hi all, I'm looking for some advice on vent pipe removal. I have a boxed-in vent pipe above the soil stack in my bathroom. Due to the room being small it would make the layout much more convenient if it was removed and replaced with an air inlet valve, as the neighbours have done (identical...

That's pretty much what I was thinking, except with joist hangars rather than screws, which seems a better idea (I'm only used to building studwork walls so far, not roofs). Is 610mm the maximum span for 25mm ply? Also what size timber would I use? 63x38mm like for walls? I was thinking of...

Thanks Jerry, I have contacted Amanda Hinks-Edwards and she has given me a rough price of £25 per square metre ex VAT and delivery which seems reasonable. The main problem I see is fitting the OSB3 or 18mm ply to the existing steel purlins as they are probably too far apart to support it...

Thanks Jerry, I have contacted Amanda Hinks-Edwards and she has given me a rough price of £25 per square metre ex VAT and delivery which seems reasonable. The main problem I see is fitting the OSB3 or 18mm ply to the existing steel purlins as they are probably too far apart to support it...

Try contacting http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com, they have a lot of paintstrippers and strippers for removing other things. I found they were very helpful when I was looking for something to take a horrible textured paint off my house exterior. They recommended two products, I got samples...

There was a similar product called Vieo on display but to me it had a much thinner, sharper edged and cheaper look. This was on an eye-level display so perhaps it wouldn'tlook much different at roof level, but the Colorcoat inspired more confidence.

Thanks Jerry, that sounds pretty reasonable. I realised it would need to go onto 18mm ply or OSB. As the purlins are more than 1 m apart there'll probably need to be further support which may be the tricky part. What kind of drawing would Tata need?