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Devildamo, it's re-modelling of the existing, returning the position of Gnd to 1st to its original position when we bought the house 30 years ago.

I have a floor to ceiling height of 2320mm and a constraint I cannot flex on the length of staircase opening My preferred staircase design has a going of 186mm. Some of second step is covered by the ceiling, with 1950m of head room above it. So it does not meet the 2m criteria - is it black...

The communication pipe to our pavement stopcock is being upgraded to 25mm MDPE from 15mm. That's a run of about 6m I plan to have a 15m run in 32mm MDPE to the house stopcock, done by moling. My plumber recommends 32mm over 25mm to future proof the supply pipe and minimize dynamic pressure...

I have asked a builder (the one who is uninstalling the actual staircase and putting in the new one, and who brought up building regs issue in the first case) it) to get a building control opinion (compliance, safety, good practice) on it as a solution. But I'll probably wait for another...

I can trim the bottom newel post and stringers by 65mm to get the structure to the right height. The platform / landing is just an enlargement of the bottom step to say 900mm from 300mm. There's plenty of space and the platform becomes a feature step. (£400 versus buying a custom made...

Food for thought. I think I can make the 90 degree turn work.

Agreed, although if you have a landing you can vary the geometry. My logic is that if I build a platform that meets the criteria for being considered a landing (say a raised "floor" 1mx1m) that is 150mm above floor level, adjust the height of stairs, then the rest of the run is compliant...

Have an opportunity to get a nice staircase, cheap. Floor to floor, it is 2675mm. My application is 2610mm. (it is a new staircase opening, so that I can flex) (1) Can I safely just adjust the rise on the first step from 206mm to 140cm? Would that meet building regs? (2) What if I increase...

Our bath panel was never fitted properly - but you get used to things... The photos of the panel and the gaps to the wall etc are at the opposite end from the tap end Any suggestions/ideas for trims, capping or changes that could tidy up this installation? Or how should it have been done all...

Thanks, that's good to know but I'll leave it for another day wait for TW to get back to me.

A couple of photos. Not confident to clean down there in case I break it... or something eats my arm off... The indoor stopcock is on 1/2" copper, so likely(?) that the 15-17m run to the pavement stopcock is too (just buried - That's a lot of old joints sitting in the mud?). Is it likely...

Anyone familiar with how (or the options for) a supply from an old main in the road would have been provided in 1963? 1/2 inch copper? galvanized steel? Early plastic pipe? 12-15mm lead? Would be grateful for any opinions. I asked Thames Water what they knew about my mains supply. They said...

Leak addressed. The old vent for the gravity system was also part of the hot water supply system and the leaky joint was from work I had done 30 years ago. It was under perhaps 2 or 3 feet of head until it became part of the unvented system (ie the open end was capped off). Rather than risk...

Rather pleased with finding this leak. Is it old? Or does verdigris form quickly

Not the screws yet, but this is what I found. Link is to the video https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjgnfywOCDzorrtsFuJhhMteV2YxJw?e=q10ikB

For what its worth, I managed to get an endoscope camera to locate the leak - fiddley but got there in the end. It's on a 60 year old soldered joint on a disused hot water feed to a basin removed 30 years ago when we last did the bathroom. We're "lucky" with the location - it is within a tiled...

To be fair to the contractor, I was forewarned that there might be leaks and addressing them would be charged at an hourly rate. It would have been sensible to quote to replace all the low pressure fittings though. Anyway, I took the risk, open-eyed, and it is only this one annoying drip...

I've just converted to unvented. I was warned the extra pressure might expose weaknesses in some of the (60 year old) joints and fittings - so two new float valves and new tap were needed as a direct result of the change. And, we now have a small drip (drop every two seconds), presumably from...

That's encouraging for my project. I've just gone unvented and I am pleased with the results. With several outlets open I get around 18lpm flowing through the water softener according to its display, and two showers can operate well. I want to squeeze as much as I can before (or possibly...

Should I change out all the old low pressure taps and valves after going unvented? I recently had an unvented cylinder installed. Our pressure is around 3bar and max flow rate via a water softener is c. 20l per minute. It's on the limit and one day we or the next owner's will have to bite the...