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Whether I use mortar or tile adhesive, am I ok to put this straight on to the chipboard flooring, or better to run the xps backerboard under the shower tray area as I mentioned in the OP?

Thanks. I was leaning towards the mortar, the skillbuilder guy made a good case for it, although tile adhesive obviously works for a lot of people. I don't have cement handy, but I have a NHL3 and sharp sand, which presumably will do the job, might be better even with the small amount of flex...

Thanks for the reassurance on the fitting of the trap first. Logically it seemed like that would work, but its good to have it confirmed by someone who has done it before. The problem here is that the manufacturer doesn't say anything about how to bed it. The tray is being delivered next week...

I watched the skillbuilder episodes, and the guy on there said that tile adhesive is a bad idea, because he reckons that its too hard and any building movement results in cracked trays. He seemed to be in favour of the mortar bed. On the other hand, many people take Godwasaplasterer's view that...

I’ve got a shower tray to fit (Goodhome Linkski 800x800) and considering that the last shower tray I fitted was about 20 years ago, and was on an upstand so was relatively easy to do, I would really appreciate some advice! First question is re the bedding of the tray. The previous shower tray...

Thanks.

Hi all, I've tiled a little before, and though I am not great at it I am going to tile a shower area soon, which should be relatively straightforward. I know that the standard advice is to start with a batten less than one tile height from the tray and work up, then remove the batten and cut...

Can't trace back. Mentioned earlier in thread that it goes under tiled floor, which is why I am taking from the attic light. That makes sense. Unfortunately I can't fit a rigid pipe into the space between the attic floorboard and ceiling below. I checked out rigid fittings and couldn't see any...

Thanks. Shouldn't be a noise issues as fan comes through into a storage part, and the attic is a spare room anyway so normally unoccupied. What's the reason to avoid flexi ducts?

So having thought about this, my plan is to put fit an inline fan with timer run on in the attic space, taking power from the attic light and the isolator switch can then be positioned next to the inline fan in the attic. Control will be from a ceiling pullcord switch outside of the zones. I...

I've taken down the bathroom light ceiling rose, and the only wires there are the switched live and neutral. These must either come directly from the light switch or from a junction that is not accessible. Directly above is a tiled floor as there is an attic room with showerdroom above. Hence I...

I'm not sure how this is relevant to my question?

Yes. And shower quite far away from the window. Its not, but the only wires present at the ceiling rose are the switched live, so fan would only be on when the light is on, no overrun.

I need to fit an extractor fan in an upstairs bathroom which doesn't currently have one. It is going to be very difficult to get to the unswitched live from the bathroom light without ripping the place apart, and a timer run on is desired. In any case, the preference is for the fan operation to...

Thanks blup. How confident would you be that its Meranti? Below are a couple of a pics from the web of bamboo flooring, which was what made me think it was Bamboo. And my floor: Then Meranti: I believe that it was fitted in around the late eighties/early nineties, not sure what was...

Hi all, Hoping someone could advise me on what kind of wood this is? The floor was down when we moved in and I am about to sand the severely scratched varnish off and replace with hard wax oil, but thought I should know what kind of wood it is first before I start in case there is anything I...

Going to make start on the floor next week, and I was thinking of going with an oil finish instead of the current varnish. Just wondering if there are any issues in changing from varnish to oil. I'm presuming it will be fine as the varnish sits on the top, so if its sanded off I can't see what...

I did a previous room with my belt sander and it was ok. That was a smaller room, but it was sanding down original floorboards which I think will have been tougher than this which is just a light refinish. But its a good point, I'll maybe try a small section with the belt sander tonight and...

I may try to get away with my belt sander, rather than hire the drum. Its a modern-ish solid wood floor on top of original floorboards so its only a light-ish sand to take back to the wood for a re-varnish (currently scratched to hell), but I know from past experience that the moment any...

Interesting. Two opposite opinions. I can see the logic behind both though.