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Only thing I would ask, is what would you consider the "standard matt"? Leyland Trade have contract matt and super leytex matt, but both of these are breathable/porous so presume neither will seal the wall - the next step up and non breathable seems to be "Vinyl Matt"? Or is there anything else...

Ok, I am with you now. Thanks.

Thanks opps. Sounds like you are saying similar to the Leyland rep, to use the paint that will be the final coat watered down as a mist coat. I suppose I had been thinking more about opacity, that I might need one less coat of the final paint if the wall was already white

This is for a recently skimmed, plasterboard wall and ceiling, in an Kit/Dining/Living, open plan extension. So, from doing a bit of my own research I now know that Contract Matt is normally only used on fresh plaster, and is breathable so allows the plaster to continue to dry out, but is not...

Thanks, that makes sense, so the expansion gap is under the top. I was looking at something similar to this, so that's reassuring I was on the right track at least!

Thanks Daz, Presume you mean this one, but my question remains as to how I leave an expansion gap with this? Do you fix to the riser and allow movement under the top of the nosing?

Thanks, but its not underlay, its 40mm thick flooring grade insulation, already installed.

Happy new year all, I am planning to install a T&G engineered wood floor, floating on top of XPS floor insulation, in a raised garden room of around 12sqm. Never done this before so I have some questions I would appreciate if someone could help. Firstly, I can see that the standard approach is...

Thanks SFK, sounds like we are describing the same thing, but in the photo it looked like the tape was over the top of the cable.

Just for information, for anyone coming to this later, I've also been continuing to look into the skirting board conduit thing. I contacted a couple of the manufacturers who initially said yes its fine to run mains cable in the channels cut in their skirting, however I pressed them on whether...

Seem to have stopped getting notifications for this thread, so missed these replies. I had been planning to put the tape on the other side of the cable, because I thought it would be to have the foil reflecting any heat generated by the cable away from the insulation rather than towards it...

Think I am sorted now for the short runs in the safe zones to the lights and sockets, but looking at diagrams of the safe zones online, cables behind the skirting board wouldn't seem to comply. I wonder, if cables are in a specially designed channel in skirting board, does that then count as...

Thanks SFK, this sounds exactly the same as I was trying to describe (badly) in my OP, but reassuring to hear someone else has done same. Good tip on lining with the foil tape also.

Thanks Simon. I had planned to use adhesive foam rather than dot and dab, but I can see what you mean. I had presumed that it wouldn't be acceptable for the cable to be buried under the insulation though, in case it overheats. I think the vapour barrier is usually on the warm side of the...

Hi, I've gutted a room down to brick and I am soon to start putting it back together. Space is at a premium so I planned to bond insulation direct to the wall and plasterboard direct to the insulation, but before I do that I wanted to think ahead about how the electrical cables will be routed...

Just updating this for anyone who comes along and is trying to do something similar in future. Ended up collecting these doors myself so that I would be able to collect them on a small flat bed/dropside cab, and keep them on there until I got enough bodies together on the Saturday. They came...

Thanks. I've been looking around for these type of things, and I found someone relatively local that hire out the glass sherpa mentioned previously in the thread. However, it turns out that they won't hire it out unless they are hiring it out to a company with a trained operator, or by hiring it...

This is an option, and I asked the manufacturer about this, but from the description they gave me it sounds a little more involved than just popping out the beads. In any case, my impression is that it would not significantly reduce the weight as I suspect 80% of the weight will be in the TG...

These come with one fixed panel already built into the frame, and while the sliding door can be removed it's supplied already fitted so they can test it assembled, then they fix the order to a pallet. I think most customers are large scale builders where they would be getting craned off and into...

Nope. I had originally presumed they would be, but the manufacturer has told me that they are supplied fully assembled. They have told me that I should be able to lift out the sliding door, which should split the weight, maybe make the heaviest part 130kg.