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Good news is draining radiator was easy - tricky bit was the nut of the TRV which wouldn't budge with my spanner (didn't have a stilson). Hopefully weeping is just from undone nut and not the pipe.

Managed to undo the nut on the TRV...will see if I have disturbed the pipe on the valve or if the weeping is from the undone nut.

Was thinking of taking TRV head off but wasn't sure if taking off head would disturb zero-setting (valve switched off setting) and let water into rad.

Update. Thanks to the versa funnel managed to drain radiator from the lockshield side (see picture). But not so successful on the TRV side - tried but nut wouldn't budge and felt copper pipe move upward which might be causing a slight weep on the pipe - didn't want that. See attached picture...

I'm decorating and need to remove a radiator. Radiator pipe very close to wall and can't use my plumb tub. See picture. Any advice on how to drain radiator without getting water all over floor? Thanks.

Found some pine slivers - was going to use these even though floor is a birchwood floor. Should I really get Birchwood slivers?

Used sawdust and glue for the smaller gaps. But wasn't sure about using if for bigger gaps or if there was a better way. But you are right, leaving boards with gaps is one option.

I'm trying to fill in gaps of my bedroom floor so I can sand and re-varnish - floor is birch and hasn't been touched in 25yrs. Problem is some of the gaps are about 8mm and wood looks like it has warped abit. Not sure if I should use filler or glue in some pieces of wood. See attached picture...

Need help figuring batteries for 2 wireless Risco sensors 1) BWare DT Detector (RWX515DT080A) 2) Slim Door Contact (RWX780868M3B) Any help appreciated. Thanks

Had the Zanussi seven years. Noticed recently freezer not getting cold enough and some food defrosting. Top shelf seems to be the worse. Fridge working ok. Attached picture of freezer compartment. Any ideas what's going on? Or should I think about getting a new fridge/freezer? Appreciate any...

Thank you for taking time to give such detailed advice. It is appreciated.

Thanks - I cleaned the flashing and there was no tear before the roofer replaced some tiles which had too much cement that had fallen from his rendering work on the chimney

Is the cover patch easy to put for a DIY person or should I get roofer back?

Thanks for your help

Have a small tear to lead flashing after roofer replaced some tiles. Didn't see it until after work was done. I was wondering if the fix is easy. Attached a picture below. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

I have an internal and external bypass on my Vaillant Ecotec plus boiler system - I'm trying to figure out if having two by-passes is a good thing or a bad thing. I was instructed by a Vaillant engineer to add an external bypass years ago because he said the internal one was too 'weak'. I'm...

I will change setting of ABV to 5. Flow and return temps right now are 37C and 29C (not cold today - about 13C). D.40 and D.41 are always the same during pump over-run. I've already increased pump-over run time of 5min to 7 min - didn't seem to be much improvement.

I get banging in the radiator pipes when the boiler goes in pump over-run after the central heating port valve closes. I'm assuming the auto by-pass opens. This boiler has an internal by-pass but was told by a Vaillant engineer the internal by-pass is too small for this boiler and I should fit...

I did take all the TRVs off - made no difference. Maybe I'll just change the central heating port valve.

Attached some pictures below. First picture shows the S plan system. Green arrows on the port valve show the direction of the arrow on the valve. The second picture shows the valve on the flow for the central heating (Top valve in first picture). Looks like the valve is the correct way round.