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In Network, check you have valid DNS server addresses. Usually, it will be the gateway address but I've had instances where Google's DNS servers have worked better (8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4). Also, check you have the correct default gateway as both of these will cause the issue you're describing.

Yes, that's the one. To factory reset, power the panel down completely, reconnect the battery, press and hold the load defaults button then press the kick start button. The heartbeat LED should come on at this point, you can let go of the load defaults button and restore mains power. After 30s...

Yes, if you utilise EOL wiring with resistors for the zones. Use red and black for power, blue and yellow for the shock sensor zone and green and white for the reed switch (see page 32 of the manual for a diagram on wiring a zone with resistors) Alternatively, you could wire the shock sensor...

I followed the Version 4 flash upgrade instructions from the Texecom website: http://www.texe.com/UK/uploads/INS552-4_Premier_Elite_Flasher_Instructions_2.pdf It does mention in a couple of places about loading factory settings after the upgrade. Could be something to do with the issues you're...

Did you follow the firmware upgrade instructions to the letter? You have to perform a factory reset of the panel after upgrading, then send all the programming from the old panel back in as V4 via Wintex (including Ricochet data) Have you got the latest version of Wintex? We don't normally use...

Try cutting out the top plastic "bar" in the pet filter. It does improve the detection rate somewhat, but they still leave a lot to be desired IMO. If you put the panel into walk test, the LED should light up with every activation for testing purposes.

Hi, That is correct regarding the EOL resistor wiring. A couple of things I would pull your installation on would be that the alarm cables should not be run in the same trunking with mains cables, the mains connection to the panel should enter through its own cable entry (it's up at the top...

Put a 1k resistor across the two silver screws, and another 1k between a silver screw and a brass one. Yellow goes to the silver screw with only one resistor leg in it, blue goes to the brass screw with one resistor leg in it. You can actually program the G2 for “dual loop” which does away with...

Hi, 1 - Yes, that won't be a problem 2 - That's correct. +12VDC to the positive trigger wire on the master blaster, BELL to the negative trigger wire on the master blaster 3 - Not really needed, but if you wanted to monitor the trigger cable, you could utilise a spare pair (say, blue and...

Should be fine with a DT, fitted lots in garages over the years (not Texecom specifically) with no issues as long as the range/sensitivity is adjusted correctly. Cold shouldn't be a problem, the microwave side of the DT is only affected by physical movement.

You have wired the tamper circuit on the keypad and PIRs incorrectly. Connect the white to your "spare" tamper terminals in the keypad and PIRs. At the panel, wire the white from the keypad cable to the "spare" tamper terminal at the keypad connector. For the PIRs, at the panel end take the...

Diagram looks right, you'll need to set one of the boxes to SCB mode as two bells will use more power than the panel can supply (hence the blowing fuses) Best way to install would be to remove the 12v connection at the panel, set the jumpers to Test, enable the battery, remove the test jumper...

I presume the "spur" in the OP refers to the fact that said socket isn't fed from an FCU currently, hence adding an FCU for the alarm would then make the alarm FCU a "spur from a spur". Easiest way around this would be to add an unswitched FCU BEFORE the existing single socket, then you can add...

Yeah, the G2 is over 10 years old now and hasn't received much attention from Honeywell since. Hybrid wired/wireless, definitely go for the Euro 46 over the Enforcer. It's the same programming menu and same app on both panels. The panels will function without the cloud, but I'm pretty sure that...

Looking at the spec for the Twin Alert and the Enforcer panel, connecting two of these sounders to an Enforcer will overload the control panel, so I'd advise only one sounder is connected. +12v on Enforcer to +12v on Twin Alert COMM on Enforcer to -12v on Twin Alert Bell on Enforcer to BA on...

It has two wired zones onboard, can be expanded by another 32 wired zones with the use of ZEM expanders. If you're going down this route, I'd recommend going with a Euro 46 panel (8 wired zones onboard) and a ZEM32-WE to add wireless detectors to it. You can get a much bigger standby battery in...

i can’t say I’ve had any issues tilting the turret style cameras down far enough to get a good image. Don’t forget, if you go too far you’ll get IR reflection from anything underneath the camera at night (walls, etc) You may need to upgrade the firmware on your NVR to get the full resolution on...

Have you tried logging into the camera directly, there are many more image settings available than there are when connected straight to an NVR. As for the viewing angle, the turret cameras are able to rotate freely in pretty much any dinension you would wish, have you loosened the locking screw...

Your current recording settings are less than ideal and will be eating up hard drive space like there's no tomorrow. It could be that your NVR is struggling to process the data from the cameras at maximum framerate. I wouldn't advise going above 10 FPS, Medium/Higher video quality and then make...

No need to, there's no power to short out in a contact. If you're careful, keep the tamper pair twisted together when you change the contact over and it shouldn't make any noise. Powering down will probably cause more problems than leaving the system switched on in this instance.