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I unscrewed the part that is fixed to the door and pulled it out with the pin, please see photo. I hadn't realised, but the bottom half of the hinge has some kind of black plastic liner which the pin slides into. It was completely dry so I put some 3 in1 oil on the pin and put it back in. Door...

Well it took me a while but I finally got around to taking the hinge off (oiling it had no effect). The 'pin' in the hinge is clearly bent so I imagine it is binding when the door moves, causing the noise and vibration. I assume it's not really viable to straighten it, is it possible? If not...

The 3 in 1 has been applied, no change so far but it has to get down to the bottom half of the hinge (the pin in the top half does not rotate within the hinge). If it doesn't flow down then I guess I will have to take the hinge off, take it apart and apply oil to the bottom half. Is that safe to...

Right, thanks. I thought ordinary oil might damage those washers but I'll give it a go now.

One of the 3 hinges on my side door is making a loud noise as the door opens and shuts. Hard to describe the sound, but looking at the hinge I think it might be the 2 washers in the middle rubbing against each other. It's not a squeak, but a much lower pitch almost grinding sound. I squirted...

As you have all noticed, not the most professional of jobs but thank you for your input. The lagging will be removed, and a mat of some sort put in place if it is too noisy.

Thanks Dilalio I was going to get a Salamander pump mat (about £25), do you know if these are any better than ordinary foam rubber? And just for the record, Stuart Turner says in its instructions 'The enclosure should have a minimum clearance of 80 mm (3”) between the pump and housing on all...

I am probably being a little over dramatic but I wondered if wrapping up a shower pump which, to quote the manufacturer, 'can become hot under normal operating conditions', in insulation might be a bit of a fire risk. Certainly won't make it any quieter (until it burns out that is).

I expressed concern to my plumber about the noise that the pump he has newly installed might make, given that it is on a wooden floor (upstairs). The solution was two-fold: 1. He unscrewed it from the floor(!) and replaced the little rubber feet that come with it. 2. The picture tells the...

For some reason I had stopped getting email notifications of replies to this thread, so I missed the last few posts. I thank you all for your advice, for the record I will be lifting the manhole cover this weekend to see if there are signs of a blockage downstream. I have drain rods already so...

I have no such insurance unfortunately, though I wouldn't normally try to claim for a block pipe anyway. If it comes to it I will get a drain company in, just a bit galling as they charge over the odds and it should really be straightforward to do it myself.

Agreed Tony, but this elbow is that access point! I will have another go at removing it and if that fails I suppose I can cut it out and repair with a couple of straight connectors and short lengths of new pipe (and a new elbow with a rodding point).

The clamp is a boss, the sink waste goes into the pipe there. I suspected this as the cause of the leak at first but there is no sign of the boss leaking. I thought the ring joint might leak if a) it was full of water and b) the vertical pipe is not fully home inside it - as I can't undo it I...

Thanks all, perhaps I can get to the blockage via the tee where the toilet joins the pipe. If I can unblock it then the leak will be solved too.

The 4" soil pipe elbow shown in the photo is leaking at the top - water is gathering around the 'lip' where the elbow meets the vertical pipe. The vertical pipe is a vent, so the leak seems to indicate that water is backed up enough in the pipe to reach the top of the elbow. This is borne out by...

ianmcd - I'm replacing a 20 year old mechanical room thermostat with a Heatmiser NeoStat. I had assumed the A2 output of the NeoStat could be connected to my existing terminal 6 which feeds the CH 2 port valve.

The PDF I uploaded of the manual seems to have lost part of the page, so I'm trying again with this post.

Thanks for a very quick reply, it's a CP15 - fitted in 1995! I scanned the instruction manual and hopefully attached it.

I would like some help understanding the wiring inside my (old) Danfoss programmer, image attached. According to the manual, terminal 3 is HW on and 4 is CH on. The cylinder thermostat is connected across 3 and 5, and the room thermostat across 4 and 6. I assume that 5 also goes to the HW valve...