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You can use lime as a plasticiser, but no need to use lime mortar. For a cement mortar, no stronger than 4:1 It's often advantageous to use either a sharp sand, or part sharp sand mix to toughen the mortar to compensate for a weaker mix. Sharp sand also removes the brown shade of red building...

That stepped flashing looks like it was made for a different chimney! There is nothing wrong with a straight flashing as long as its recessed into the wall. You need to be certain if the damp you are experiencing is due to that flashing, and not one of several other possible reasons.

Both irrelevant to the current situation now.

Normal countersunk wood screws will be fine, galvanised or passivated You may need brass screw cups of the boards are soft.

You've turned the heating on high, things have dried out, the ceiling shrunk a bit more than usual

Oh, you mean the discharge or drainage field from the tank, not a soakaway? Check your deeds to see what the easement says, if any. And whether you are still in accordance with it - eg no additional extensions/rooms. You may need a survey to confirm if there is a problem either with your tank...

Will they except "here's the locations of hundreds of thousands of garages that have not managed to fall down for the past 80 years, and the sites of some new builds being built now"?

I/2 brick with piers centrally and at any opening for a single storey, regardless of how big it is.

You could try some C clips fitted over the ends where the interlock is. Use some silicone or no nails to help secure them

What's supporting the edge of the first row of tiles? No batten?

You mention a septic tank problem which implies foul water, and a soakaway which would be rain water. You cant put foul water into a soakaway, and would not normally put rainwater into a septic tank. What's the actual problem and what's the relevance of a septic tank issue affecting a soakaway...

Make up a very small timber frame from CLS. Clad externally and internally with ply or OSB for rigidity and then fit a uPVC board to match the sun room frame, insulate inbetween.

You should think in principles, not detail. When joining new to existing, or modern construction to traditional, there will be movement - be it initial settlement, seasonal structural or ground movement, or on-going thermal/differential movement of the structure or components. You should...

Condensation is not the issue. Even a vented roof void will get condensation. Vents are a relic from the days of bitumen felt - which seals the roof void. The requirement is that any humidity is controlled and condensation allowed to evaporate away naturally via normal air movement. The AO...

There's other threads on this situation. You need to insulate the warm room, not the cold garage. The key thing is that you must be sure that all air gaps in the floor void are sealed - typically around joists in the walls. Otherwise you'll have cold air circumventing any insulation and...

Looks like condensation/hygroscopic grease stains. The stain will leech through paper. You need to stain block it.

That's unusual for those tiles to rattle. It must be really exposed, or high or low pitched! The problem with just a nail is that the frequent movement can stress the tile and cause it to crack - and you may not see it if it's on the runner interlock. See the Innofix Clip from Redland

Any membrane that is defined as air and vapour permeable would perform without additional venting. A BBA certificate would certify this and it would be acceptable to building control. The advantage of such a membrane is that it helps with complex shaped roofs - and even normal roofs as tile...

It's relativity clear. If you build to the Permitted Development criteria specified for extensions - as in those links above, then its permitted development and you won't need to apply for planning permission. I can't see how you have got quotes already when you've not even finalised the...

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