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You can't normally prop a purlin perpendicular to the rafters with vertical posts. The posts are not transferring the load.

Use a membrane that does not require additional roof void ventilation.

Permitted Development is a scheme for building certain things without needing to apply for formal planning permission, as long as the thing is designed to meet certain criteria - in those links above. You should check with your council as to what permitted development rights exist for the...

There are other criteria under permitted development such as height, proximity to boundaries, width, position relative to front/principle elevations, and addition to an existing extension. Look at the rules for extensions and outbuildings.

Do 60s houses have stud walls, or paramount?

Well, I'd make sure that that firm will give a suitable long warranty for following their guidance. Resin surface is a wearing layer not a structural layer. MOT and similar sub base are un-bound and prone to movement and localised point load and rutting, and need a more rigid layer to bind it...

I can't see any blood stains in the picture, so that's evidence of it being safe. But to be sure, it probably needs a sign saying "No Millennials allowed to operate, and no Gen Z allowed to even look at it"

Yes fill it of whatever you have. Allow for the paving depth and around 75mm of hardcore, and fill to a level just a little higher than that and it will then have time to compact naturally before you finish the surface.

Is that render a silicone one coat? Don't pressure wash render, it will erode the surface making it rougher and more susceptible to future dirt and algae stains. Just brush on some biocide - Wet and Forget or Path Clear or similar. That will give lasting protection.

Resin paving needs a solid base layer - tarmac, concrete or slabs or similar, and can't be laid direct to a layer of stone as that layer will move. For this job you would lay the sub base and base, lay the edges to the required level, lay the insert tiles then infill the resin layer using the...

The noggins are to stiffen up the floor and stop the joists twisting. Twisting will start at the ends if they are not restrained. The noggins should be at least 3/4 the joist depth. Remember to set them in to allow for the thickness of wall plaster, not flush against the wall.

It looks to me that the centre marked in red is not actually the centre of the circle which the bay segment is part of.

Oh FFS.

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You really need to get local quotes - even more so for places in Scotland. Estimates based on elsewhere, or even using cost indices can be way out. Find a competent designer and they should be able to advise on costs, and also design to a budget. Remember to include all the other associated...

Sorry for any confusion, my quote was a two part answer to your post Standard plasterboard adhesive Qboard recommend a C2/S1 or S2 tile adhesive. There are several other options - expanding foam adhesive, standard board adhesive, tube grab adhesive (not solvent based), and these will work...

Standard plasterboard adhesive is normal, it comes in bags like plaster. It looks like q board do recommend a tile adhesive - c2 (cementitious) and s1 or s2 rated (ie flexible/highly flexible)

You would use dabs to allow the new boards to be plumbed and aligned. You can't do that with a solid bed. You should not use tile adhesive. Use proper board adhesive or foam adhesive. You would not normally require additional mechanical fixings. Finished cavity would be between 10 and 25mm, so...

Stop reading about this wherever you have been reading! Presumably this is a floor, not a bridge. Do something along the lines of ... 1. Put new joist next to existing joist 2. Whack a few nails in