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Why has it got to be oil/solvent based? There are some great water based trade satins out there. These will stay white too.

Thanks Madrab. I've already done it now. I put two rubber washers in and as it is there's no weeping. Am I best leaving it or starting again?

Thanks guys

Yeah, I did look at just switching the joint but it's so fiddly to get to. Thanks for the reply. Does it matter that the cap is quite deep and goes over the thread completely? Also would jointing compound be any yse or irrelevant as no olive. Thanks again

Hi. I've moved some bathroom taps and would like to cap off the old T. Does the cap just screw on or does it need an olive? I think no olive as no pipe coming out. Should I use compound or tape or neither? Thanks for replies. I've enclosed pics.

Cheers my dears

Ok. It is indeed an inner sleeve so it looks like I can just use the old sleeve and push the new waste in or hopefully I can get a new sleeve and use afresh.

Nah, that's at the top of the stairs until after I've tiled. The soil outflow sits inside the toilet by a few centimetres so the toilet will fit flush against the unit (front panel still to go on). I may have to slightly adjust the bottom of the unit to fit around the pipe coming up from floor...

Thank you. The pipe sticking out the floor has a rubber seal on the outside rim whereas the flexi pipe seems to just push inside. Does the flexi still push in the same way with this pipe? Do I keave that rubber lip on? Thanks

I am currently doing up our bathroom and the new toilet is to be up against a vanity unit. The current toilet waste goes into the floor. Luckily there is plenty of room for the waste and the cabinet. I'm just unsure what waste pipe to get. I'm thinking I need a flexi pipe for ease. Would it just...

Hopefully not as I've left it alone. New shower is amazing, especially compared to the crappy electric one it replaced

Not at all, especially on a problem wall

123 would help, or BIN, but only after you've scraped them off. Depending on your finish colour it would also be advisable to spot the colour on any primer before a full coat just to minimise the primer itself showing through. Peel stop is also good, especially after popping and sanding as it...

As in, the original colour before your new colour. This does seem like the original colour was painted on top of moisture or droplets of grease or fizzy drink etc. Now each time you re wet the surface the bubbles are showing. This is where the original paint didn't adhere properly. It's a...

You can prime the wall before painting if you want. You could use a different roller. You could scrape off every bubble when they show up, then fill and prime and re paint. You could get a sanding machine and go to town. Or you could let them all disappear once again and grab a beer out of the...

Burst one of them and see what colour is behind it or uf it's bare plaster. Or just keave it if it goes back down, lol

£950 for a 4m x 4m room, just painting? How many workers? I would do that on my own in a day and a half, so two days easy. I'd charge £300 plus materials! Think I need to put my prices up!

It's just the combination of the two coats. The first coat could still have a slight bit of moisture in it.

I think you need to give it a good sand down and apply a coat of zinsser b.i.n. Then a light sanding and it should then cover with two top coats of satin. I use a lot of water based satin for my customers and for economy customers I often use Leyland trade fast drying satin. Currently £25 for...

I usually find this is grease spots or someone's opened a can of coke up the wall. It is more than likely underneath the original wall colour though and when your put your new wet paint on top the water brings the spots back out. They then go back down once dry. You can sand beforehand but it...