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Have you looked closely at some of the more modern addressable systems? They can get quite clever, for example, with our system at work some zones run as heat only detection during the day but, when the intruder alarm is set at night, then they change to smoke detection as well.

Another scenario I've seen a few times..... A failing lamp is ignored. The starter keeps trying to start the failed lamp, the lamp blinks & tries to start many many times. Eventually the starter fails short. The heaters in the lamp now run permanently with just the choke acting as a current...

It can't. It doesn't. It wont. The active carbon filter will trap some of the odours... for a while. The water vapour will come straight back out again. You will be disappointed with how "well" it works - bite the bullet, do it properly, & vent it to outside.

There is no problem 'power cycling' the dialer - it won't lose its settings. I never did find a solution. Even a technical query to Pyronix never got a working solution (other than power cycling). I no longer own that property so not a current problem ;)

???? Why would it not say "IΔn = 0.03A" ?? That's the differential trip rating of 30mA. Surely if it where just an RCD it would only give a "IΔn" rating.

I think its an RCBO too. For me, the giveaway is the C16 - suggesting a 16A over current trip rating device with a type 'C' tripping curve. If it were just an RCD , there would be no need for the C in front of the 16

There are safe working procedures developed to do this. I don't want to go into too much detail on a public forum but such methods involve techniques such as only exposing one live conductor at once & using insulting tools & gloves.

Those old wattage ratings were based on the heat produced by a filament lamp. Of the 40W of energy that went into the lamp, probably around 38W came out as heat & only 2W as light.

I'm not sure anybody makes a 40W LED in a candle lamp format. 120W of LED would be 'worth' around 800W of 'old' filament lamp (in round terms of 15W LED = ~100W incandescent) Or do you mean LED equivalent of the 40W filament - that would be more like a 5W LED candle. Found this table on the...

Yeap, our garden tap has a 5/8" thread, took me ages to find a suitable adapter ( 10 yrs ago.....) not very common but they do exist ;)

You say two earth rods..... 75 yds apart. Obviously the live & neutral connections between the inverter shack & the home are copper wire.... What about the earth connection? Are there THREE wires between the shack & the home ot TWO? Is the neutral of the inverter connected to the earth rod &...

There are several types of single phase motor which use a capacitor to get a phase shift. Does your pump motor have a centrifugal switch that cuts out the start winding when the motor gets upto speed? If not it could be that the aux winding is intended to stay in circuit full time & hence why...

Thats a classic symptom of a neutral/earth fault. (The MCBs are single pole so openning the MCB doesnt remove the problem) They can be absolute buggers to find. Its probably not a bad RCD - its doing its job!

Fairly standard setup. The frost stat fires up the system when the temperature it is exposed to falls below about 5 deg C. However, since that space is unheated, running the boiler will never warm the space up so the frost stat wont be satisfied until the spring! The answer is to fit a pipe...

My mother kept candles in the fridge .... if there was a power cut & the lights went out.... she'd be able to find them in the fridge 'cos the light comes on when you open the door ;)

It may not be possible to replace the filament lamp in your fridge with an LED one. Sometimes the lamp has other purposes beside illuminating the inside of the cabinet. For example, on some designs the lamp is run in series with the defrost heater on the defrost cycle (hence why it appears to...

And thats what would worry me. If the designer hasn't taken the time to make sure that device fails safe (ie. failure = output OFF) then what other safety features has he omitted???

Almost certainly a 'K' type - the green one with green & white cores. Lots of K-type thermocouples in RS A thermcocouple plug would be RS 455-9764 Note that if you choose to fit the plug yourself, the green wire is +ve & the white white is -ve. I know its "automatic" that the green should be...

Indeed... but is that name coming from the second part of the 'gas valve unit' ..... the bigger, electrically driven valve, that releases the gas to the main burner under the control of the control system (often 24V AC) switched by the boiler thermostat etc etc?

Yeap, thats really what it is. The tiny electro-magnetic 'powered' by the thermocouple keeps the pilot gas supply open.