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Remove the Louvre. You may need to jiggle it a bit side to side before one side becomes free.

Not required at all. And should never have been fitted in the cupboard, nevermind to the fabric of the cupboard itself. Did you not agree with him the scope of works before he began?

Blimey! I guess that wasn't a 1" domestic service pipe! High Pressure main perhaps?

I've often wondered why the end of the inner arm of the footprints is shaped like that! I know it must be for a reason... I guess I assumed it was for flaring out the open end of a lead pipe ready to insert a copper pipe & wipe a 'proper' joint.

Not off peak...that's just a metering issue. More likely from the old DC mains ........

That looks like a piece of old pipe to me.... This is still very much "work in progress" ... Are you sure that isn't a temporary thing while they progress with other parts of the work?

If its 1999 vintage I'm surprised that the battery in the bell box is still good!

I agree - filament lamp replaced by LED - a huge decrease in power & rise in efficiency perhaps as much as 10 fold flourscent lamps replaced by LED - still less power but now only around 1/2 the power for the same output. HID to LED - not much difference at all really. The higher power LED...

Yes... nobody EVER turns off site lighting!

Its not unkown. Ours (a Wylex 63A 30mA) often trips when the power returns. I think its due to a large surge current when all those switch mode power supplies start to refill their reservoir caps - it will often know out the 32A MCB on the ring final to. If I reset quickly then they both hold &...

I did mine as a variation on the 'lollipop' circuit - 6mm^2 from the OCPD to the switch & the two legs of the 2.5mm^2 ring leaving the switch terminals. I'm sure you can get a mechanically latched contactor - one 'pulse' to latch it ON & a second to release the latch. The coil consuming no...

I have done something similar in workshop spaces that I've built in the past - red sockets live 24/7 & white sockets which are switched via a switched near the door. It doesnt have to be via a contavtor - a 45 DP 'shower' switch would do just fine. A contactor is only going to use a few...

Thats not how you do it. The two-ways at the far ends stay. the intermediate switch (or switches) go in the strappers.

Keep that sensible head on! That cable has laid there for years... you really don't wanna see the mess it will make (and probably of the person holding it at the time) if it goes Pete Tong!

Put one of these over the hole that the cables come out of ....

Slightly different context I know...... At work, we are only allowed to use oxy/prop to braze since the insurers won't allow Acetylene cylinders inside the building. I've been trying to get a 19kg Propane cylinder for weeks now ..... tried BOC/Calor/my local marina/Chandler ... always the same...

Unlikely to be condensation - does your hot water tank frequenly get below room temperature ? :) I don't really see how a weep from the top connection would make it inside the immersion heater cap since it has a raised boss. That immersion is quite old - it doesn't look like to has a secondary...

I used to have about 50 of these, all with 16A ceeform in & out, and a selection of coloured (Red, yellow, green, orange & some blue. But blue didn't really work too well) We used to use them for temporary feature lighting in gardens when we'd provided the Entertainment in a marquee for a...

Its about the best you're gonna get with simple ON/OFF control. Now if you want to get into proportional control thats a different thing all together!

I think you are still not clear on the terminology. Nobody is saying it takes 35A to blow. What we are saying is 35A is the MAXIMUM current that particular style of fuse can interrupt safely. If it is subjected to a fault current greater than 35A that it may fail in a catastrophic way and/or it...