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Fitting a new kitchen and mixer tap. HW is pumped at 2.4 Bar, CW is mains at 1.3 Bar. I am thinking that the only "danger" of contamination is of the higher pressure HW forcing back into the cold supply via the mixer tap. Is that right? In which case it seems I would only need a single check...

Thanks.

Thanks, I'll go for that. Am I right in thinking that the top of it needs to be about 2mm below the bottom of the worktop to get a decent layer of silicon to flow in the gap?

I am fitting a double belfast sink and it sits on top of a belfast sink unit with a flat top (minus the holes I have made for the two wastes). When the worktop is fitted it will be silicon sealed to the worktop where that overhangs by 10mm on back and sides, but should I be seating it in a bed...

Thanks guys, that is exactly what I will do now. You have convinced me it has to be the easiest way to go. I shall use one of these. Question is whether it needs an condensation trap as well. I think the fact that it is insulated means no it doesn't but I could be wrong.

No. Here is a a fine piece of artwork I just knocked up!

The only way to access that area is to lift roof tiles and cut through the membrane and I'm not sure I want to do that (or can even access it easily now that the conservatory is "in the way").

Possibly. The "simplest" route would be to go vertically up from next to the right side of the beam. I haven't measured it but I think that would come up through the roof tiles (rather than the floor of the room above which starts further to the right). It would need a soil pipe roof kit, cowl...

Yes, that was suggested earlier in trhe thread and looks the way to go. The only thing is it means I have to core drill 4 x 91mm holes and I hate core drilling! I have diamond drills but that is still probably 45 mins per hole and a lot of aching arm muscles!

Probably the slope of the roof that comes down above the lintel. To raise the lintel and conservatory ceiling component would mean the whole lot sticking up proud of the sloping roof. As it was they had to remove two rows of roof tiles to butt the conservatory join against the level where the...

The steel took the place of the wall. For it to go further "back" (I assune you mean to be a continuation of the still extant external wall) we are talking chopping into the top of the wall in the next room (behind where that sensor hangs). That is a tiled bathroom so pita finishing off.

I don't know the dimensions of the beam other than it is approx 3m long. Pic from other side.

I don't know how big the steel is but the pillar was existing from when the wall was knocked through. If they had demolished the pillar then what would they rest that end of the steel on?

The hob will be about 1m to the right of that corner so, yes, ideally that is where the duct would go through. The "design" process was get a company to design a conservatory extension which included knocking through the existing external wall. That is nearly completed and now that we have an...

Cut through the steel does indeed sound difficult. I never mentioned anything about it being disruptive but if you are referring to taking up the laminate floor, and sub floor, above just to run ducting seems insane to me. There would be no "eyesore" if I could drill through the pillar as on...

Makes sense. My only slight concern is that there must be a gap between back of plasterboard and the wall face as there is electric wiring capped. Just a thought that if my child shoulder barges it it might dent.

I can't go beyond the end of the steel as it sits on that pillar and the is against (or further) the back wall. I hadn't thought of going over it but coming out the other side of it will be where fascia used to be before the extension was added. I think the conservatory roof beams come down to...

See pic. The hood will be to the right of the pic and the ducting has to go up into the celiling above it and then down inside a cupboard close to the pillar you see on the left. It is that pillar that I have to drill through. Behind the hood is a bathroom with no easy exit for a duct to the...

No, The steel comes below ceiling height (plasterboarded and skimmed). So, if run duct along ceiling it would hit the steel. So I have to do that and then drop down inside wall cupboards to get below steel before I 90 degree through the side of the cabinet and into the pillar approx 50cms below...

The only way I can run cooker hood ducting in new kitchen extension is to run through a 300mm x 300mm brick pillar that holds up a newly installed steel lintel (wall knocked through). This rings alarm bells: the ducting should be 150mm diameter and surely I shouldn't be core drilling a hole...